Seattle Song

A Follow up on Ballard Past and Present

2007-05-12T08:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, the Seattle Times published a front page story of the blending and clashing of the old and new Ballard. It also mentioned the Ballard Historical Society. Both the article and the Society's website are good reads.

A Day (or so) in: Ballard

2007-05-07T15:17:00.000-07:00

Note: This post is one of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are included, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

For a taste of both Old-School and New-School Seattle living in blended harmony, the neighborhood of Ballard is your destination. Situated in Northwest Seattle along the shore of Puget Sound, Ballard is the epicenter of Seattle’s long-standing Scandinavian community. It is also a hub of the fishing trade for the city.

Left: The brick-paved, tree-shaded shopping street of Ballard Ave. on a quiet afternoon.

With a staunch, proudly blue-collar image and long, independent-minded history, Ballard has become a magnet for artists and craftsmen as well as a new generation of fisherpeople and shipbuilders. You will find cafes that still serve up lutefisk (eeesh) and Maxwell House to the older generations of Swedes and Norwegeans and newer restaurants that list Copper River salmon and Café Vita espresso on the menu. The folks here are real, and there’s a wide range.

Right: One of the many funky little car mechanic shops in the 'hood... this one obviously with a sense of humor!

Below: A ship in drydock on the Ballard waterfront.

What to do, What to do….

Get a sense of Ballard Past by visiting the Nordic Heritage Museum. Apparently, it is the only museum in the U.S. to honor the immigrants from the Nordic countries. Here in Seattle, it is a relevant institution. Not only are there historical exhibits, but also ongoing events which are well attended, including a Christmas Pageant, concert series and Scandinavian art exhibitions.

Next Head to the Chittenden Locks to watch ships of all sorts move from the freshwater lakes to the salt water sound. You will see everything from huge container ships to single-person kayaks take the ride up and down. The Locks also host a well used fish ladder where many varieties of salmon can be seen migrating throughout the year. Finally, stroll the botanical gardens and find a nice perch over the locks for a picnic lunch.

Another great picnic spot is Golden Gardens park, just west of downtown ballard. It is a waterfront park with sandy beaches where you will find kids making sandcastles, beach volleyball games, and many, many sunbathers on the warmest days. From Golden Gardens, you can soak in views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains and catch a stunning sunset over the water.

If it is art you crave, visit the neighborhood on the second Saturday of the month to participate in the Ballard Art Walk. Galleries stay open late and often showcase new exhibits for this event, sharing wine and appetizers.

If it’s performing arts you crave, visit Live Girls Theater to attend a play, comedy, or poetry reading. This theater supports women artists by showcasing their work.

If it’s music you seek, check out who’s playing at the The Tractor Tavern. A long standing venue for local talent as well as touring bands, the Tractor is a staple in the Seattle music scene (and they serve good beer!)

Shopping in Ballard

There are far too many great shops in Ballard to try to list them. Suffice it to say, perusing Ballard Avenue alone could be a weekend’s project. Market St., which crosses Ballard Ave., is also filled with shops, markets and cafes. Here are a couple resources to get you going:
NWSource.com, and
InBallard.com

Above: Ballard Ave. is chock-a-block full of fabulous shops from clothing and shoes to home furnishing and pet supplies

Eatin’ & Drinkin’

Right: Portalis is a sweet little wine bar on Ballard Ave.

Hattie’s Hat, a venerable Ballard institution is where you will find old-time Ballard stalwarts and young-folk mixing and matching.

Ray’s Boathouse is another Ballard Tradition, albeit more upscale than Hattie’s Hat. This is where you go to watch that sunset with a cocktail or morsel of salmon in hand.

Restaruante Michoacan, reportedly some of the best Mexican food in Seattle.

Volterra… amaaaaazing Italian.

Dandelion Café… a hip, newer eatery.

Larsen’s Original Bakery is where you will find the real thing when looking for a “Danish”.

Café Besalu, another great bakery that trends more modern than Larsen’s traditional.

Dish D’lish is a casual little eat in/take out joint by Seattle foodie celeb, Kathy Casey.

More Drinks…

More Eats…

Where to Stay???

If anyone knows of a good hotel, inn or B&B in Ballard, please comment! This is the one thing that seems to be missing from the world of Ballard.

Opening Day – Seattle Style

2007-05-03T20:06:00.000-07:00

Everywhere else in God’s green America, Opening Day is synonymous with the start of baseball season. Not here. Not in Seattle. In Seattle, Opening Day, always the first Saturday in May, marks the official start of boating season. It is a long-standing tradition, dating back to 1913. The Seattle Yacht Club, which has hosted the event from its inception, has a great history of this big party on the water, which now includes crew races and huge parade of boats, yachts and ships of all kinds.

Above: Opening Day Parade passing through the hoglines of boats. Image from the Seattle Yacht Club website.

The races and parade pass through the “Montlake Cut”, a narrow canal that connects Lake Washington with Lake Union. Spectators-on-foot line both sides of the Cut, and spectators-on-boat create long hoglines that extend the canal up to ¼ mile or more into Lake Washington.

Left: Crew teams recovering at the end of a race. Image from the Husky Crew website.

Opening day is Seattle’s May Day, celebrating the return of warming weather, waxing days, and how we spend them… namely, on the water. Yachts, kayaks, dragon boats, row boats, canoes, sail boats, ski boats, fishing boats, skiffs, and inner tubes with beer holders will all be in attendance on Saturday to watch the races, tag along the end of the parade, and generally make merry.

Here is the schedule of events. Arrive early along the Cut with a picnic blanket and basket to claim a vantage point to cheer on the Husky crew teams.

Hidden Treasure – Freeway Park

2007-05-02T13:02:00.000-07:00

Tucked behind Seattle’s Convention Center and the Union Square buildings, and over a small cap covering a portion of the I-5 freeway, is Freeway Park, an intricate web of walkways, thick landscaping, and restful cubbyholes hiding in plain sight in the middle of the city's business district. The respite from the downtown streets is over 5 acres in size, but given its inconspicuous location, it is one of those special places in Seattle that you must know about (or be an intrepid and fortunate wanderer) to find.

Above: A bright red information kiosk with map stands among the lush plantings.

The park reflects the highrises of the city by use of a “Brutalist” hardscape using heavy forms of concrete to define the spaces of the park’s many “outdoor rooms.” This architecture is balanced by the dense plantings of evergreens and flowering shrubs, trees and annuals. There are highlights of sculpture and a large waterfall at its south end (only on in the late spring to early fall).

Right: An arbored "hallway" between garden rooms.

The park is strewn with benches and summertime lunch hour finds it packed with office workers reading, napping, or chatting over a brown bag meal. The one drawback of the park is the incessant drone of the freeway traffic. However, it is not overpowering and falls into “white noise” status after a while.

Left and Below: Two sculptures at the north end of the park, near the Convention Center.

Only 4 or 5 blocks from the center of Seattle’s retail district, Freeway Park provides a nice break from the shopping frenzy. To-go lunches can be found in the concourse at nearby Two Union Square.

Left: This Escher-esque edifice is a wall of falling water in the summertime.

Getting to know Seattle through the Eyes of its Bloggers

2007-04-22T20:57:00.000-07:00

No better way to learn about the personality of a place than to get to know its people. In the right-hand column you will find a smattering of blogs from the Pacific Northwest with a wide range of voices, topics, and opinions. Most are from the Seattle area. Perusing these is a wonderful way to become acquainted with the interests, politics, and idle thoughts of those who reside in this fair city.

Another great resource is Seattle Blogmob. This is a portal for weblogs located in and around Seattle. It has both a list and a map of Seattle weblogs highlighting the locations of the authors of recent posts. Want to know what Seattlites are thinking RIGHT NOW? Check out Blogmob.

Weekenders: Orcas Island - A Center of the Cascadia Universe

2007-04-14T08:11:00.000-07:00

This post is one of an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

About 100 miles north of Seattle, in the most northwest corner of the contiguous US lies a group of craggy, evergreen, windswept islands called the San Juans. They are part of a larger archipelago that reaches north along the BC coast.

Above: A view of the hamlet of Olga on Orcas Island

The San Juan Islands include far over 100 islands. Many are tiny holding, at times, a single tree. Some are completely owned by a single person. Some are entirely state parks, complete with docks, mooring bouys, and basic camping facilities such as water spigots, fire rings, and outhouses. Only four of these islands have sizeable populations: San Juan, Lopez, Shaw and Orcas. These are also the only four islands in San Juan County that are accessible by the Washington State Ferries. As the WSFs are by far the most affordable way to travel to the islands, these four islands have become even more populated and have developed into destinations for travelers.

Left: Riding the Washington State Ferry

Each of the four major islands has its own individual charm and unique landmarks and assets. Each has accommodations and parks and historic sights. Orcas, although not the largest or most populated (San Juan Island is), seems to be the most popular with visitors. It may have to do with the charm of East Sound, the only town on the island. It could be the marketing muscle behind historic Rosario Resort. Or it might be that Orcas has, by far, the highest point in the county, Mount Constitution in Moran State Park, from the top of which on a clear day one can see as far north as Canada and behold breathtaking views of Mt. Baker, the Olympic Peninsula, and nearer bird’s eye views of the islands themselves.

Right: A view southwest toward Lopez Island after sunset from Buck Bay

This mild, sunny region (due to a “rain shadow” created by the Olympic Mountains, the San Juans get about ½ the rainfall of Seattle), is rich in wildlife from eagles, loons and herons, to whales, seals, otters, and deer. Orcas Island, approximately 60 square miles in size and with a year around population of about 5000, is also rich in landscape, arts, and activities. It has such a vast spectrum of things to do and see it’s hard to know where to start in describing Orcas and highlighting the must-see sights. Nonetheless, here is an intrepid attempt:

How To Get There

To drive to Orcas (recommended due to its size and limited rental car service), you must plan ahead, particularly in the summertime. There are a limited number of ferries to Orcas each day. Check the WSF website for the schedule. You cannot reserve a space, and boats fill up in the summertime, so depending on the day and time (Thursdays and Fridays are most popular), you should arrive at the landing between 1 and 3 hours ahead of your intended sailing time.

Left: 90 minutes before the ferry departs on a Friday in April

Directions: From Seattle, drive North on I-5 about 65 miles to exit 230.
At exit 230 head west on highway 20 approximately 15 miles to Anacortes.
Head north on Commercial Ave a little over a mile, then follow signs west to the Washington State Ferry Landing.

Flights are also available through San Juan Airlines and Kenmore Air.

Activities

Scenic Drive Destinations
•
West Sound is a sweet little crossroads on, you guessed it, the western half of the island. There is a small inn and café with a view south to the water. Getting there, you drive through farmland reminiscent of Ireland with its sheep and grassy expanses.
• Deer Harbor is a step beyond West Sound, and offers views of a snug little harbor after a trek along a rocky shoreline.
• Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park on the east side of the island is a long, windy drive up and up through fir forests breaking open to ever-more breath taking views as you climb.

Above: A summer solstice sunrise from the top of Mt. Constitution, looking across Lummi Island toward Mt. Baker. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad.

• Olga, a couple miles south of Moran Park, is small, quaint and intimate. The Orcas Artworks is there, with Café Olga, and a drive down to the road’s end offers a peek into hamlet life on the island. A dock, gazebo, potter’s workshop, community hall and park, and a post office being the highlights

Above: The public dock in Olga

Hiking

• Moran State Park offers several hiking trails of varying length and difficulty, two beautiful and COLD lakes which are perfect for trout fishing (in season) and non-motorized boating (paddle and row boats can be rented in the summer), and comfortable camping facilities.

Left: Cascadia Falls in Moran State Park

Right: Hiking Mt. Pickett in Moran State Park

• Turtleback Mountain, recently saved from the threat of development through the efforts of the San Juan Preservation Trust is another hiking gem of the island, only recently opened to the public for hiking.
• Obstruction Pass Park is a locals’ favorite. A short, flat hike through fir and madrona forest and dense salal leads to a beautiful rocky beach. A few campsites are available.
• Madrona Point is a small park and sacred Lummi burial site just a few short blocks from “downtown” Eastsound. It offers an easy, short hike to views south out of the Sound. Grab a picnic lunch at Roses Bakery or Island Market and head over.

The Arts
• The Orcas Center,hosts local and visiting performances of theater and music. If you see a local group on the calendar, don’t shy away… Orcas is a magnet for artists of all kinds and the talent shows up on stage.
• Orcas Grange hosts the occasional dance, which is supposed to be truly a wonderful time.
• Orcas Artworks shows and sells fine art and craft only from full-time residents of the island. Membership in the co-op is competitive and prospective members’ work is juried.
Left: A self-serve flower stand across the street from the Artworks. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad

• Howe Art is a magical, kinetic sculpture garden and gallery.
• Crow Valley Pottery is both beautiful and historic.
• Lamiel Museum is a continuously evolving collection of local art in a private home.
• Other Ideas

History
• Orcas History Museum is a sweet little place in Eastsound, comprised of several historic cabins from the island which have been moved and attached. Learn about the Native American tribes and the European pioneers as well as later history through the depression and world wars.
• Rosario Resort was originally the private home of Robert Moran, a wealthy Seattle shipbuilder. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century and is a lovely place to tour. Robert Moran was also a great patron of the island, developing and donating the land that would become Moran State Park to Washington State.

Shopping in Eastsound
Here are a few Cascadia Girl favorites:
• Farmer’s Market
• Tres Fabu
• Olga’s
• Darvill’s Bookstore

So Much More
• Kayaking, Whale Watching, Fishing, Spas, Sailing are just a few of the other activities on Orcas. Here is a good resource for finding outfitters, charters, rental companies, etc: thesanjuans.com

Where To Stay

Inns and B&Bs
Turtleback Farm Inn
Kangaroo House
Buck Bay Farm
Inn at Ship Bay
Outlook Inn
Deer Harbor Inn
Kingfish Inn

There are far more options than the ones listed here, but it is a start. Here is a resource for more ideas: gonorthwest.com

Camping and Other
Moran State Park Note: Try to reserve a camping spot NOT along the main road.
Vacation Rentals Note: These are for longer stays. Usual minimum rental is 1 week.
Doe Bay Resort Note: Very crunchy-granola funky.
Rosario Resort Note: Very popular due to strong advertising and long history. Some folks love it. Not a Cascadia Girl favorite, however the spa there is said to be very nice.

Dining
As with the accommodation list, the array of options for dining is far wider than the list here. However, all those listed below have the “Cascadia Girl Seal of Approval.”

Casual, less expensive, options
• Café Olga
• Rose’s Bakery
• The Kitchen
• Portofino Pizzeria
• Bilbo’s Festiva
• Westsound Café

Fine Dining
• Inn at Ship Bay Note: Their scallops are heavenly.
• Olga’s
• Christina’s
• Deer Harbor Inn

Other Information Resources
The list above does not begin to do justice to highlighting all the attractions of Orcas… there is just so much. Therefore, here are a few more resources for research and dreaming:
• Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce
• Guide to the San Juans

Knowing Where We Came From to Understand Who We Are: HistoryLink.org

2007-03-29T09:10:00.000-07:00

Want to know more about the Pike Place Market, read Chief Seattle’s 1887 prophetic speech on environmental stewardship, or get a virtual tour of Seattle’s neighborhoods? Check out HistoryLink.org., an “online encyclopedia of Washington State History.”

“Encyclopedia” does not do the site justice. It offers themed slide shows, covering topics from the 1909 world’s fair, to the Lewis and Clark expedition, to thumbnail photo histories on neighborhoods. There are study aids and bibliographies for students and teachers, a travel section for visitors (and locals), biographies, and a progressive search engine that allows you to drill down on topics. If you search under “art” then “asia”, you will be served articles such as a biography on George Tsutakawa and a timeline of the Nipon Kan Theater.

This is a great way to prepare for a trip to the Northwest, particularly if you have specific interests, or a desire to understand the region's roots and influences.

The Arboretum

2007-03-19T07:55:00.000-07:00

Given the exquisite landscaping and loving upkeep of the Washington Park Arboretum, there is a valid argument that any season is the season to walk this zenful 230 acres. However, springtime and fall are the highlights with blossoms and leaves, respectively, providing a parade of color and texture.

Spring bloom time has recently begun, with Japanese cherries, magnolias, rhododendrons, camillias, and forsythia showing off among the new, bright green leaves of other trees. Professional and hobbyist photographers alike are flocking to the park these days, along with the usual dog walkers, runners, couples-in-love, and troupes of school children on nature walks.

Highlights include the Japanese Garden and the Foster and Marsh Islands trail at the north end of the park, featuring breathtaking views of Lake Washington, University of Washington, and often crew boats, kayakers, canoers, and all other sorts of boaters. This area is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, filled with herons, eagles, red-winged blackbirds and all forms of ducks and other marshland birds. This trail map will be helpful on your walks.

The Arboretum is open from dawn to dusk every day of the year. There is no admission fee. The Graham Visitors’ Center is open from 10am to 4pm every day of the week (closed on certain holidays) and includes a gift shop, restrooms, and a meeting space. The Japanese Garden is open Tuesday - Saturday, except for June, July and August when it is open every day of the week. The admission fee is $5.00. This map will help you find your way there.

“The Cirque” Seattle Style

2007-03-16T18:15:00.000-07:00

There is a new spring ritual in Seattle: The Moisture Festival. This is an amazing two-week-long celebration of local cabaret, circus, burlesque, and vaudeville talent including acrobatics, juggling, comedy, dance, interactive performances and more. Over 130 artists perform across two venues in the city (Hale’s Palladium in Fremont and the ACT downtown). It is quickly becoming the Spring equinox equivalent to the Summer Solstice parade and festival (also held in Fremont). Per the website, the Festival has become an annual reunion of sorts for local vaudeville-style artists.

Proceeds are donated to two local charities: the BF Day School Foundation and the New Old Time Chautauqua. Tickets to the Palladium show start at $5 and tickets to the ACT’s burlesque show are $20. The Festival runs from March 15 to April 1.

This is just the tip of the psychedelic iceberg when it comes to neo-burlesque and Cirque du Soleil style cabaret performances. Teatro Zinzanni takes you to Liza Minelli's Cabaret and beyond. Can Can’s neo-burlesque cabaret is new and supposed to be cheeky and fun.

The Seattle Times recently did a great write-up on the mushrooming new-burlesque scene in Seattle, and included a list of venues.

This Seattle zeitgeist should not be missed…. Enjoy!

A Sculpture Park is Born

2007-02-13T08:58:00.000-08:00

Seattle is all a-buzz about its new Olympic Sculpture Park, and for good reason. This public space in the Belltown neighborhood is the first in Seattle to have the potential for the grand quality of New York's Central Park, or the Tuilleries of Paris. It is a large space in the center of the city, designed for walking, that has beauty unto itself and shows off the beauty of the city that is its home. Entrance is free and it is open every day of the year.

Above: Looking west, past Calder's "Eagle," toward Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains - The park's name sake.

I say "potential", as the park in many ways is nascent. The landscaping is in its infancy, and the art collection (although already a great range of sculptural styles and concepts) remains small relative to the expanse of the nine acre site. In fact, although the park opened a couple weeks ago, parts remain under construction. Not only will the collection flesh out, but it will constantly evolve, with pieces appearing and others disappearing over time.

Above: Richard Serra's, "Wake"

Although there are aspects of the Park that are similar to the great urban parks of other cities, there are some significant differences too. The Olympic Sculpture Park is very modern, not classic, in its design. It was also not part of the original or early plans for the city. This place was reclaimed from industrial use and winds its way over and around both a major city street and train tracks.
Additionally, great efforts were put into environmental restoration of the site, including the restoration of part of the shoreline of Puget sound.

Right: "Split," by Roxy Paine

It seems every aspect of the park was thoughtfully considered, from the site, landscape, architectural, and collection design, to details such as the compostable serving ware at the cafe (which has a lovely selection of tasty, "picnic-able" food) and an acknowledgement of the displacement of homeless folks who had lived on the old industrial grounds.

Details

Location:
2901 Western Avenue, Seattle

Maps:
Click here

Holiday Closures:
Although the park is open every day, the Pavilion, which houses the gift shop, cafe, restrooms and garage, is closed on the following holidays:

Independence Day, Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Columbus Day, Monday, October 8, 2007
Thanksgiving, Thursday, November 22, 2007
Christmas Eve, Monday, December 24, 2007
Christmas Day, Tuesday, December 25, 2007
New Year's Eve, Monday, December 31, 2007
New Year’s Day, Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Hours:
Park Hours
May 1–September 30: 6 a.m.–9 p.m. daily
October 1–April 30: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily

Pavilion Hours
May 1–September 30 Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.Friday: 10 a.m.– 9 p.m.
October 1–April 30Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

Parking:
Pay parking is available in the Pavilion garage. The entrance to the parking garage is on Broad Street. Open Daily from 6 a.m.–10 p.m. No overnight parking.
Rates: 0–2 Hours $62–4 Hours $12All Day $22
Metered parking is available on Western Avenue and Alaskan Way.

Dogs:
Allowed on leash in the park, but not in the pavillion (except, of course, service dogs).

Weekenders: Mount Hood & Timberline Lodge

2007-02-05T19:24:00.000-08:00

This post is part of an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

About an hour east of Portland, Oregon sits Mount Hood, the state's highest mountain. It is to Oregon what Mount Rainier is to Washington: a point of orientation, a comforting icon of home, an outdoor recreationalist's haven. The mountain is almost entirely National Forest land, with much of it designated as wilderness. Climbing, hiking, and skiing are all year-around activities there.

Mount Hood also has a treasure trove of history in Timberline Lodge, a gorgeous hand-built lodge constructed at the height of the 1930s depression by the WPA (Works Progress Administration). Forest workers and WPA artists worked long hours to complete the entire project in less than two years, from early 1936 to late 1937, and was dedicated by President Roosevelt.

Above: Outside of Timberline Lodge. Look familiar? The lodge was used for the outside shots in "The Shining."

The lodge, which operates to this day as an inn, was dedicated as a national historic landmark in 1978. It is also a "living" piece of American craft from woodcarving to wrought iron works, from weaving, applique, and painting to mosaic, carved linoleum, and stained glass.

Left: A pelican banister post leads to a stairwell paneled with a carved wood mural and lit by a hand wrought iron lamp.

Left: A mosaic illustration of Mt Hood wildlife is the back splash for the brass water fountain.

Since the mid 1970's the lodge has been maintained and restored by a dedicated group of volunteer artisans, called the Friends of Timberline, who work diligently to preserve, repair and when necessary replace craftwork in the same manner the original pieces were created.
Left: Note the loom next to the ranger's desk. Visitors can often watch artists recreating fabrics to replace worn out draperies and furniture cushions.

Many of the rooms in Timberline are dedicated to the lodge's history, from its creation to its famous visitors to the evolution of Mt. Hood as a destination for outdoor recreation.

Above: Pictures from early-day visitors.
Left: The story of how local Campfire Girls designed the insignia for the lodge. Campfire has long been an icon of Northwest living.

The video clip below provides a glimpse of the Lodge's great room.

How To Get There

From Seattle, take I-5 south to I-205. Continue south on I-205 to I-84 east. Heading east on I-84, take exit 16 and follow signs to US-26. Continue on US-26 to Timberline Highway, which takes you right to the lodge.

Where To Stay

You would be cheating yourself if you stayed anywhere other thanTimberline, especially in the wintertime. Given the beauty and historic significance of the lodge, as well as the ski lifts being right out the door, the prices are very reasonable ($90-$255). However, if you can't get reservations or prefer to camp (summer only) the local chamber of commerce can point you to other places to stay.

Where to Eat

Again, really, the place to be when you visit Timberline is Timberline. The lodge has a fabulous fine-dining room in the Cascade Dining Room. The Ram's Head Bar is great for lunch with a view of the skiers. The Blue Ox Bar is another option.

Down the mountain in Government Camp, the Huckleberry Inn is the place for breakfast. The huckleberry pancakes are a must. Further on, in Welches, is a great little Mexican joint called El Burro Loco.

Above: The view to the slopes from the Ram's Head Bar.

Where to Play

For the snow sports:
Timberline, of course, has a very nice ski area that takes you far up the mountain onto its famous glaciers. The largest (and nicest) area is a bit further east at Mount Hood Meadows
Ski Bowl is the least expensive... for a reason.
Snow Bunny is a long-standing inner tubing site for snow-loving non-skier.

For summer activities, the Mount Hood Information Center has lots of great info and links on camping, hiking, climbing, fishing, festivals and more.

Getting out with the Kids

2007-02-01T21:21:00.000-08:00

Without benefit of having kids herself (but regularly acting like one), Cascadia Girl tries her hand at ideas for outings with the kinder-folk:

Woodland Park Zoo

A "park within a park" in the Phinney Ridge neighborhood of Seattle, the Woodland Park Zoo is a comfortable and fun affordable outdoor family outing:

Per their website: "Woodland Park Zoo encompasses 92 acres and features more than 1,090 individual animals representing nearly 300 species. The grounds are divided into what are known as bioclimatic zones, the unique habitats around the world, from tropical rain forests to the frigid climes of the Far North."

The grounds are well designed for the wanderings of humans and animals alike. The bioclimatic zones give a feel for the natural habitat and species mix in the large area. (But, no... no lions in with the gazelle... only species that play well together.)

Pacific Science Center

The Pacific Science Center is an interactive, hands-on museum of physical science. Exhibits teach about everything from astronomy to dinosaurs to insects (the butterfly exhibit is my FAVorite). PSI also houses Seattle's IMAX theater.

The Science Center is priced about the same as the zoo, so a family of four would pay about $35 for the day.

Seattle Aquarium

Another great hands-on experience, with thirteen, ever-changing major exhibits and frequent special events, there is always something new here.

Try to time your visit with one of the talks or feeding times.

Cost for a family of four is a bit more here: approximately $40.

Seattle Children's Museum

Quite literally a creative playground, the SCM "challenges visitors to work in teams, manipulate objects, role play, problem solve and develop eye-hand coordination with a variety of unique exhibits and programs."

With 8 permanent exhibits and many other child-sized venues for learning, the Museum transports kids to other parts of the world and history through its programs and activities.

The most affordable of the outings listed, a trip to the Museum for that family of four will cost $30.

Seattle Children's Theater

With a mission to provide children of all ages access to professional theatre, with a focus on new works, and theatre education, SCT has "developed and improved the caliber of plays available for young audiences in the United States and abroad, developing and producing over 90 new works."

Each play is rated for the age-range that would most enjoy the performance. Currently, "Goodbye Moon" is playing, which is great for ages 4 and up.

More expensive than the museums (but well worth the cost), ticket prices range. For a family of four, an evening at the theater would be around $85.

Thistle Theater

For a different type of theater, try Thistle. Thistle Theater, "brings together professional puppeteers, artists and musicians to create unique & diverse puppet theatre productions for the entire family. They specialize in a form of Japanese puppetry called Bunraku. The puppeteers dress in black and operate the puppets from behind.

Thistle performs at more than one venue, so families can often attend a show close to home. Ticket costs for a family of four would be approximately $33.

Museum of flight

More for the older (and much older) kids is Boeing's Museum of Flight, which chronicles the history aeronautics, including many historic planes that visitors can step into, including an Airforce One and a Concorde. There are workshops for the little ones. Cost for a family of four is about $33.

Experience Music Project

Another place for kids of all ages, EMP is part music history museum, part interactive music lab. You can teach yourself to play a guitar, mix an album, or scratch. You can learn about the history of Northwest rock, the evolution of the guitar, or the life history of Jimi Hendrix.

The most expensive of the museums, and understandably once you "experience" it, EMP will cost that family of four $70.

When in Rome... or Seattle: Eagle Watching on the Skagit

2007-01-27T08:40:00.000-08:00

This post is one in an intermittent series on places and activities favored by Seattle locals when they want to “sightsee” their own backyard. In every city there are activities and landmarks promoted to tourists that locals avoid, because of the crowds, the cost, the “cheesy” factor, and/or having done it every time family visits from out of town. In Seattle, these include the Space Needle, the Underground Tour of Pioneer Square, and riding “The Duck,” among others. Ever wonder how a New Yorker sightsees in Manhattan or a Parisian in Paris? Here is a look at what Seattlites do when they want play tourist.

One of the most raw yet beautiful events of nature in Cascadia is occurring right now on the upper Skagit River, approximately 2 hours north and east of Seattle. A major salmon spawn is in full swing, attracting hundreds of bald eagles. This year, the Nature Conservancy counted over 500 balds along an 11.5 mile stretch of the river. This is a record for the Skagit and is the largest gathering of the raptors in the country.

Cascadians, in turn, flock to the area to take in the amazing sights of both the salmon run and the convention of eagles and other large birds that converge to feast. Each year thousands of visitors arrive with binoculars, cameras, boots, and raincoats to watch the spectacle of this cycle of life.

Left: Bald eagles dining on spawning salmon in the upper Skagit River. Photo from the Skagit River Bald Eagle Awareness Team, taken by Bradley Husick.

The upper Skagit is an intensely beautiful area with dense forest laced with moss and carpeted in ferns, salal, and other evergreen undergrowth. The small towns of Concrete, Rockport and Marblemount which line the Skagit River host the annual Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Festival” which happens next weekend, February 3rd and 4th. Events range from the “biscuits-and-gravy” breakfast feed at the local senior center to scientific presentations, guided tours, and entertainment in the form of storytelling and musical concerts. The locals put their heart and soul into the festival. They are very proud to be stewards of this part of the region and to be helping to preserve this annual rite of nature.

There are many ways to see the eagles, from guided hikes to float trips. However, you don’t have to be an outdoorsman to catch the action. Highway 20 parallels the river in many places and it is common to see folks pulled over on the shoulder of the road, taking pictures of the feasting birds from inside their cars.

Here is a link to a couple video clips of eagles feeding on salmon in the Skagit.

How to Get There:

Head north on I-5 one hour to Sedro Wooley, then east on Highway 20.

Where to Eat (and stay):

There are many little local cafes and restaurants in the area. Most are of similar casual, family-style quality. For a little piece of history and local color, stop in at the Buffalo Run Inn in Marblemount. This restaurant/hotel used to be the area’s brothel (many, many moons ago). Last time I ate there, the waitress told us about shooting a bear in her back yard who had started rummaging in the trash cans. Generally, shooting bear is illegal except for when one becomes a “public nuisance and danger”. “And,” she told us, “bear’s good eatin.”

An eagle-watching trip can easily be a one day outing. However, if you want to make a weekender of it, there are many kitschy, little places to stay along the way.

Delving a little Deeper:

If you do make a weekend of it and want take a break from the Festival, check to see if any of the other hiking trails in the area are open and hikeable.

A Carnival of Ideas for Cheap Eats

2007-01-25T20:46:00.000-08:00

Back in October, Chowhound started a thread on its Pacific Northwest forum on the $5-or-less meal in Seattle. There's a month's worth of lunches (or dinners) listed now, and a similar list was compiled for Portland.

Fill 'er up!

Weekenders: The Methow Valley

2007-01-22T20:33:00.000-08:00

This is the first in an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

On the eastern border of Cascadia, where Highway 20 touches down from a flight through the North Cascades, there is a magical place called the Methow Valley. This region, half wilderness and half cowboy country, is an outdoor recreationalist’s dream, both in the summer and the winter. Although it is a “working” valley of farms and ranches, it is also a mecca for Seattlites craving real seasons; the heat of summer and the snow of winter.

This time of year, many of the ranchers and farmers open their fields for cross-country skiers. There is over 100 miles of groomed cross-country trail in the valley. Track, skate, and back country skiers flock to the valley from December to early March. There are ample snowshoeing trails as well, and each year there are more trails (ski and snowshoe) that are open to dogs!!

Above: The dog-friendly, "Big Valley" trail just east of Mazama

In the summer, many of the ski trails continue to be publicly accessible for walking and mountain biking. There are also many great hiking trails in the national forest. Climbers scour Goat Wall. There is hiking and horseback riding. There are music festivals and rodeos.

How To Get There

Getting to the Valley is the only challenge. From Seattle in the wintertime, the drive is at least five hours. Travelers must take either Steven’s Pass (Highway 2) or Snoqualmie Pass (I-90) to Blewett Pass (Highway 97). The North Cascades Highway (Highway 20) is closed in the winter due to heavy snow and avalanche danger. However, the 20 is the undeniable route to take in the summer. Each journey is beautiful, but the 20 is unsurpassed.

Where To Stay

In the wintertime, the preferred destinations are the communities closest to the mountains. Early Winters, Mazama and Winthrop are the areas that will have the best snow. There are many affordable, little cabin motels in the Valley, including Winthrop. My favorite Winthrop accommodation, however, is the Duck Brand Hotel and Cantina. It is a comfortable spot right in kitschy, "old western", downtown Winthrop with very reasonable prices. For a more all-inclusive and swankier stay, try the wonderful Mazama Country Inn. The hearty yet gourmet meals are served family-style in the winter, and they set up a brown bag buffet so you can pack a trail lunch for your ski day. Many folks like the Sun Mountain Lodge, a classic hotel/resort on the south rise of the valley.

Grub

There is a wide selection of great, inexpensive food in the Valley. Here's just a small selection:

Mazama Country Store in Mazama
Topo Cafe (Asian) in Winthrop
Duck Brand Cantina (Mexican) in Winthrop
The Twisp River Pub in Twisp
Tappi (Italian) in Twisp
The Cinnamon Twisp Bakery in Twisp
The Blackbird Cafe in Twisp

All dining in the Valley is casual, or at least casual optional. Never worry about walking in in jeans and boots!

Gearing Up

Winthrop Mountain Sports is the favorite outdoor clothing and equipment shop in the valley.

The Trails End Bookstore in Winthrop is your gear shop for the more snowy days.

PS to Coffee-Counter Culture: A Starbucks Upgrade

2007-01-18T07:28:00.000-08:00

In my last post I lauded local coffee houses over Starbucks. However, if your caffeine withdrawal does not allow you to venture more than 1/2 block to find your fix, this morning I read in the Seattle PI a reason to step into Starbucks: they are switching to BGH-free milk. Always a good thing.

Coffee-Counter Culture

2007-01-16T20:23:00.000-08:00

Sometimes there is truth behind a stereotype. One such true myth is that of the caffeine-propelled, latte-swilling Seattlite. We looooooooove our coffee. (Although, some of us prefer our brew straight-up. I’m a cup-a-joe girl, myself.) We spend top dollar to cozy a big mug of fine java, or score a pound of lovingly roasted beans. It is also true, I am sad to say, that lines at Starbucks can wind through the shop 30 espresso-fixated customers deep.

Mind you, Starbucks does a fine job… a wide range of descent coffee drinks whirled out like baseballs in a batting cage. For what they do, which is ensure consistent, good quality at high volume, they have it down. However… if you are looking for great coffee, something unique, and to linger over it in a coffeehouse with ambience and local personality – and fabulous pastries, check out a few of these favorite neighborhood coffeehouses:

Ballard:
Sip & Ship

Belltown:
Bellino Coffee
Macrina Bakery
Uptown Espresso

Capitol Hill:
B and O Espresso (No website)
Bauhaus Coffee
Café Vita
Victrola

Fremont:
Canal St. Coffee (no website)
Icon Coffee (no website)

Madrona:
Verite Coffee

Pioneer Square:
Zeitgeist

Queen Anne:
El Diablo
Caffe Ladro
Uptown Espresso

University District
Café Allegro (no website)

There are, oh-so-many more wonderful neighborhood coffeehouses (and so many more neighborhoods for that matter). These are those I know, personally, to be great. I recommend you check out Caffinated & Unstrung for the full lowdown on where to go when you’re in the ‘hood, no matter which ‘hood it is.

Finally, Here are a few of the stellar roasters in the city. Like some small wineries, often their volume is so small, you can’t find their product unless you go to their shop (or call and order):

Roasters:
Vivace Espresso
Caffe Ladro
Café Vita
http://www.victrolacoffee.com

The Kitsch Factor

2007-01-14T09:44:00.000-08:00

For those who get their kicks on the funky side of life, here's a sampling of Seattle's kitschy destinations:

Rat City Roller Girls

Yes, roller derby has had a renaissance in Seattle in the form of an all-women team in a growing league. Although this is honest competition and true athletics, these gals play up the camp as well, with stage names such as "Dirty Little Secret," Burnett Down," and "Diva Skate" as well as personalizing thier uniforms with details such as fishnet stockings, cat ears on helmets, and face paint. They have a rabid fan base. Check out the "Hall of Pain" injury gallery on the website!

Sunset Bowl

For those of you who prefer to participate in your sports, check out Sunset Bowl, a Seattle landmark in Ballard that continues to draw crowds with 24x7 (yes, it's true) hours and some of the rockin'-est Karaoke in Seattle in the nagahide-covered lounge. Check out some local reviews...

Archie McPhee's

The kitschiest shop in the kitschiest neighborhood in Seattle (Fremont), Archie McPhee's is the epicenter of funny, funky STUFF. These are the folks who brought us the action-figure librarian (modeled after our own Nancy Pearl), among other treasures. Stepping into this store is like stepping into a carnival.

Deluxe Junk

Also in Fremont, Deluxe Junk is a mecca for midcentury modern furnishings and vintage, Hollywood inspired tiki and Asian decor. Everything is in pristine condition and artfully merchandised. You will lose track of time here.

13 Coins

If you want to take your camp in a different direction, 13 Coins, a rat-packy old-school classic of Seattle, is the place to head. These guys are the best kind of kitch... they are not trying to be that way, they've just never changed! Open 24 hours a day, they serve up classics such as jumbo shrimp on ice, eggs benedict, and baked salmon. Try to snag a high-backed counter seat to watch the cooks flip omlettes and steaks over high-licking flames.

When in Rome…or Seattle: Mt. Si

2007-01-12T09:38:00.000-08:00

This is the first in an intermittent series on places and activities favored by Seattle locals when they want to “sightsee” their own backyard. In every city there are activities and landmarks promoted to tourists that locals avoid, because of the crowds, the cost, the “cheesy” factor, and/or having done it every time family visits from out of town. In Seattle, these include the Space Needle, the Underground Tour of Pioneer Square, and riding “The Duck,” among others. Ever wonder how a New Yorker sightsees in Manhattan or a Parisian in Paris? Here is a look at what Seattlites do when they want play tourist.

When Seattlites want to “get outside,” test their meddle, and take in some awe-inspiring scenery without hauling out the backpack, they head to Mt. Si. Located in the beginning of the Cascade foothills, about ½ hour east of Seattle in North Bend, this day hike is a pilgrimage for many locals; some annually, some weekly, some daily. Many hike it in the late spring to test their readiness for other mountain excursions. It offers lovely, forest scenery and stunning views of the Cascades and the city from the top.

An eight mile hike, round trip, you climb 3700 feet to a craggy outcropping with views to the west (Seattle) and south (Mt. Rainier). If you investigate a bit, you will also find some views to the north (Mt Baker).

Left: The view South

While on the trail, you may need to step aside for one of the Mt Si runners. These are folks training for big races and use Mt. Si as their Stairmaster. If you see water bottles tucked next to the trail, leave them. They are left by the runners while heading up to grab and use while coming down.

Left: A close up of Mt. Rainier

You will also likely run into many big, friendly dogs. Dogs are welcome on Mt. Si and, although officially they are supposed to be on leash, most are so friendly and well behaved that their owners let them loose to blaze the trail.

Tips:

Go when it’s been dry for a few days (yes, that happens). Mt. Si is a steep hike in places, and can be treacherous when muddy.

Above: Looking west toward Seattle

Wear sturdy boots. Although the trail is very well maintained, it is an eight-mile hike with a healthy incline. Also, the last stretch to the top is a rock scramble.

Go early in the morning and/or on a weekday. This is a VERY popular hike. If you start after 8am on a sunny weekend day, you could find yourself in a glory train of fellow hikers. Also, if it is going to be warm, you don’t want to be hiking up in the heat of the day.

Don’t forget food and water! Make sure to bring a knapsack with the basics, including lots of water, a hearty sandwich, and something to snack on, on the way up.

Bring your camera. The views really are breathtaking, and fellow hikers will be happy to take a “victory shot” of you at the top.

Directions:

From Seattle, drive east on I-90 to Exit 32. Turn left on 468th Avenue and drive to North Bend Way. Turn left and drive to Mount Si Road. Turn right and drive 4 miles to the trailhead on the left.

Links:

http://www.mountsi.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Si
http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=2087

A Day (or so) In: The Pike Place Market

2007-01-08T17:34:00.000-08:00

Note: This post is the first of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are organized in itinerary form, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

Overview:
Granted, the Pike Place Market is not a neighborhood, officially, but it certainly should be. The Market is the epicenter of Seattle for tourists and residents alike. Perched in a stellar setting over Elliott Bay in downtown, it is central to all of the city. Just about everything one would need for daily living is found in this historic, patinaed landmark. Produce and flower stalls, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, breweries, cheese makers, and ethnic grocers abound (as do local craft stalls and the more generic souvenir shops). There are restaurants, shops, services, and apartments. There is even a health clinic, a senior center and a daycare facility in the greater, 12+ block labyrinth of the Market.

Checking in: There are two places to consider staying at the Market. For those traveling on the proverbial shoe string, the HI-Seattle Hostel is a real bargain. This clean, and secure hostel is right in the lower part of the Market and dorm beds start at $25 per night. For those with more leeway in their budget, the bed and breakfast, Pension Nichols, offers the best value for ambience, location and amenities. (It is also, by the way, pet friendly!) Rooms start at $120 per night for double occupancy.

Morning:
Start your day at the Market with a hearty oatmeal or egg-&-bacon breakfast at the Soundview Café. It is a cafeteria-style diner with one of the best views in town. A counter seat at the west wall proffers a sweeping vista of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains (on sunny days). This place is frequented by locals, and the café even has an area for folks bringing their own brown bag meals.

Then, walk all the calories off by exploring the main drag of the Market, Pike Place, and the adjacent walking street, Post Alley. Take pictures, listen to buskers (there is a fabulous A-cappella singing group that is often in front of the original Starbuck’s shop), take in the stunning view from Victor Steinbrueck Park at the north end of the market, and do a whole lot of tasting and window shopping. Some of my favorite haunts include: Sur La Table (the original shop), The Souk, DeLaurenti, Metsker Maps, Left Bank Books, Market Spice, and Raven’s Nest.

Afternoon:
On a nice day, shopping for picnic groceries for lunch at the park is a fun option. If you do, check out Beecher’s Cheese and the deli counter at DeLaurenti’s for some nice additions to your basket. If the weather is less than accommodating, there is a myriad of small lunch spots and take out counters to choose from. You can find humbow to yeeros, piroshky to pizza. These are your most affordable options. For great food and ambience at reasonable (but not cheap) prices, try Maximilien Bistro for GREAT salads and french onion soup or, Matt’s in the Market for fabulous seafood. During tourist season, you may need a reservation for either.

Fueled up again, now head “Downunder” to the lower levels of the Market. You will find a playground of unique, kitchy shops, like Market Magic, F & J Great Western Trading Co., and Holy Cow Records. Let yourself get lost in the maze of shops. Any shopkeeper will help you find your way out.

Evening:
For dinner, head to the bar at the Pink Door. This whimsical, romantic little Italian joint is a favorite place for Seattlites to meet up with friends. If it is summer, try to snag a table on the patio. Their antipasti menu is very reasonable as is their house wine. For a treat, try their blue martini called “Parfait Amore”. Later in the evenings there is usually live music and sometimes a fabulous cabaret.

If you want to keep going, just across Post Alley from the Pink Door is Kells, an Irish (surprise-surprise) restaurant and pub that also has live music on the weekends.

And if you want to keep going in the wee hours, Le Pichet stays open until 2am, serving French Bistro fare, good espresso and wine.

Day Trippin' 101

2007-01-03T11:23:00.000-08:00

Here's a tasting of the smorgasbord of day trips accessible from Seattle. It is just a sampling, with ideas for a variety of settings. Each of these outings is a full day except for Snoqualmie Falls which can be a 1/2 day excursion.

Mount Rainier is the largest mountain in the state and is a gorgeous national park. It is about a two-hour drive from Seattle.

Skagit Valley & the town of La Conner are about an hour north of Seattle. The valley is one of the richest areas of farmland in the country and all kinds of flowers are grown there (although most will be past their bloom season in late May). The town of La Conner is a farming and fishing town that is also very pretty. There is interesting shopping and good food there. The Museum of Northwest Art, in La Conner, is a great showcase of the northwest style of contemporary art and craft: .
Mt. Pilchuck is just east of the Skagit Valley, with great hikes in the park: http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/MountPilchuck_7602.asp and Pilchuck Glass School.

Whidbey Island, is about 1 1/2 hour away, including a great 1/2 hour ferry ride across Puget sound. The town of Langley is very picturesque and Ebey's Landing is a great walk both over and along a beautiful beach.

(Above: The Ebey Landing walk)

Snoqualmie Falls and Salish lodge are about 45 minutes east of Seattle, toward the Cascade Mountains, in farm country. The falls are quite dramatic. The lounge in the lodge offers a fabulous view of the falls and surrounding countryside.

Tacoma is about an hour south of Seattle. Things to see there include: The Museum of Glass, founded by Dale Chihuly, the Tacoma Art Museum (which I think has a better, albeit smaller, collection than the Seattle Art Museum), and Point Defiance Park which has a great 5-mile loop drive as well as many trails and great views of, and access to the beaches on, Puget Sound.

Although this list just scratches the surface, it is a great place to start.

Finding Events in Seattle and Surrounding Towns

2006-12-31T08:30:00.000-08:00

Here is a great search site that seems to have just about every little and big community event in the area: Seattle City! Encore. You can search by dates, and the greatest thing is that it shows all the little events happening in the little towns in the area! For instance, it shows the New Year's dance on Orcas Island, the "Ski for Health" event in Leavenworth, and the "Kids n Critters Naturefest" in Eatonville. A great resource for finding truly local events.

Living, and working, on an Organic Farm in the Pacific Northwest (or anywhere for that matter!)

2006-12-29T09:41:00.000-08:00

One interesting way to experience life in Cascadia is to volunteer on an organic farm in the area. The international nonprofit organization World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms acts as a matchmaker between organic farmers and volunteers willing to work on the farm in exchange for housing, food, and a hands-on education in sustainable agriculture. Generally, volunteers work 1/2 a day, each day, in exchange for their meals and accommodation.

They are clear that it is a volunteer program, so neither WWOOF nor the farms are able to assist with work visas. Most international volunteers come on a tourist or student visa. By the way, there are other organic farm volunteer opportunities as well, such as academic/internship programs.

More on the organic farm movement in the Pacific Northwest can be found on Cascadia Song, under the December 29th post.

Riding the Ferries

2006-12-26T12:45:00.000-08:00

The Washington State Ferry System is the largest in the US. These lovely old (and some new) boats service 20 destinations throughout the Puget Sound, including two routes to Vancouver Island in BC.

To drive onto the ferry can be spendy. So, if you are traveling by car, you may want to plan your route to avoid the boats. However, as a walk-on passenger, the ride is very inexpensive and is a comfortable, fun, and very authentic way to see one of the most beautiful parts of Washington State.

If you are in Seattle, the easiest rides to take are from pier 52 at the downtown waterfront. There is a marvelous ride from Seattle to Bremerton that takes 1 hour each way. The fare is $6.50 for the round trip. The route takes you from the city west out of Elliott Bay into Puget Sound and past Bainbridge Island and parts of the Olympic Peninsula. On a sunny day, you will also have stunning view of the Olympic Mountains. Departing and arriving Seattle, you get amazing views of the city. Once on the water, you have beautiful vistas of the Sound, the islands and the Peninsula. Although Bremerton itself is not a real tourist destination, the journey there is worth the trip. When you disembark, you can just get right back in line for the return boat.

The boat is large and has two car decks and passenger levels. Although there is a café, I would recommend bringing a picnic meal (which you can gather at the Pike Place Market, which is about 10 blocks away). I recommend timing the trip so that on your return voyage, you are arriving back at the Seattle dock just after sunset, as the view of the city from the water at night is spectacular.

My other favorite route the ride through the San Juan Islands from Anacortes, although once in the San Juans, you will not want to leave. So, you might want to plan for an overnight or two on one of the islands. Friday Harbor, the largest town in the islands, sits right at the bay where the ferry arrives. You would be able to walk to your hotel from the ferry landing. On Orcas Island, there is a lovely, old hotel right at that landing as well.

Winter Solstice

2006-12-21T20:00:00.000-08:00

For a true taste of the local Seattle culture in the holiday season, try to secure a seat at the Fremont Arts Council's Feast of the Winter Solstice. It shows a very intimate and locally-flavored side of Seattle's arts and activist community. It is a potluck dinner for all the volunteers of the FAC that includes amazing art installations, drumming and dancing, and a sun effigy to which you tie notes of what you wish to let go of in the coming year. At the end of the evening, it is burned. This is a wild, druidic affair that is also a great time to meet some of the most community-oriented Seattlites in the city.

You bring your favorite food and whatever you wish to imbibe. They are also now asking that if you are not a FAC member, that you join ($25) and contribute a donation to cover costs ($10). This is voluntary, however. If you are strapped on cash you can always, in the spirit of community, volunteer to help with the set up or clean up... another great way to meet the locals!

If you are coming in the summer, then the MUST SEE is the Summer Solstice Festival Parade, on the weekend closest to June 21st.... costumes galore, belly dancers, men in kilts, and naked bicyclists (and that's just the AUDIENCE!!) But, more on that later.

Going to the movies

2006-12-13T13:37:00.000-08:00

During the dark, stormy months of winter (and fall and spring), when Northwesterners are tired of reading and are itching to get out of the house, movie houses are the place you will find them. (That is, when they are not at book stores, or coffee houses, or the theatre... but I digress....)

One of the best bangs for your cinema buck is the Fremont Outdoor Cinema. $5 suggested donation gets you into one of the funnest movie social scenes in the city. Bring your own low-back folding chair and watch great old movies in the great outdoors. There are food vendors and pre-show entertainment. And, being in Fremont, one of the most interesting audiences in town as well.

Just next door, in the Wallingford neighborhood, you can join the "Wallingford Neighbors for Peace and Justice" for a free "Friday Night at the Meaningful Movies". These are documentaries in the social justice vein. They are usually followed by a facilitated group discussion.

Another cinematic bargain is the Crest. This funky, old 4-screen theater shows 2nd run films for only $3 each!

For a more "full meal deal", try the Central Cinema. Admission to 2nd run films here is generally a whole $5, BUT it is also a restaurant, where you can munch pizza and swill beer while you gaze at the silver screen. These guys also will show more experimental, new cinema such as new animation and shorts.

Seattle is also a hotbed of independent filmmaking. One of the centers of this zeitgeist is the Northwest Film Forum. The Forum also has a cinema where you can find some of the new, more experimental and hard-to-find films. Many of thier screenings and events are free.

Then, there are the festivals. The Seattle International Film Festival, which occurs throughout the city in the spring, is the largest film festival in the US. In fact, although the largest by far, SIFF is only one of several film festivals in Seattle. If you are a film buff, the festivals often present a good value for your movie dollar, if you want to see several flicks and are willing to purchase a pass or package deal.

There are many more interesting events and venues in town, but this is a good springboard to start your cinematic adventures.

Wikitravel.org on Seattle

2006-12-10T11:31:00.000-08:00

Wikitravel has a very useful and user-friendly overview article on Seattle with lots and lots of info for visiting the city. It drills down on many of the neighborhoods, and provides ideas for things to see & do, places to eat & stay, and how to get around. I highly recommend this as a primer to the city.

Coffee & WiFi (no cigarettes)

2006-12-09T15:04:00.000-08:00

In Seattle, people regularly use coffee houses as office space. You'll find folks ensconced at cafe tables and arm chairs, surrounded by personal electronics. They will be either on the phone or crackberry or tapping away on their laptops. Coffee houses encourage this community by providing free WiFi service. Here is a great Wiki-powered site that lists not only coffee shops and restaruants, but libraries and other public sites that provide this service. Wifimug. It also indexes them by neighborhood. Great resource!

The Taco Truck Scene

2006-12-09T14:33:00.000-08:00

I have it on the best authority that some of the tastiest (and cheapest) Mexican food in Seattle can be found at some of the many taco trucks around town. I have not yet tried any of these, but here is a blog that lists some of the author's favorites: Los Taco Trucks.

The one I have tried and LOVE is in Walla Walla (land of fabulous onions and wine) on 13th and Rose... just FYI.

A world of food in Bellevue

2006-12-07T13:34:00.000-08:00

Earlier I spoke of how, in Seattle, mall food breaks the Cinnabon/PronoPup/McYuck mold by offering a wide variety of locally owned, ethnic eateries. One of the best is on the eastside of Lake Washington, in the Crossroads neighborhood of Bellevue: Crossroads Mall. My favorites include Ebru Mediterranean, Papaya Vietnamese, and Torero's Mexican (where you will always find a gathering of the local Latino commuity watching a soccer match on Univision). There are options for the less adventuresome as well including pizza and BBQ.

Crossroads Mall is truly a community gathering place, where you will always find chess games going on and often live music of all kinds. As this is in the heart of Microsoft land (the campus is only a couple miles away), the mall also provides free wireless service.

Check it out... you'll be surprised.... I was. I detest malls, but I love these aspects of Crossroads as well as the great 2nd hand bookstore there.

Getting around Seattle by Bus

2006-11-28T15:47:00.000-08:00

Seattle's current snow day got me thinking about the bus. This town has a great bus system. Metro covers all of the greater Seattle area, including Bellevue, Kirkland, and other eastside cities. It also links up well with transit for other areas of the Puget Sound. Fares are reasonable and the buses are pretty reliable. Dogs are allowed on buses, but you must pay a fare for them (unless Spot is a service dog). Often the driver will not enforce the fare rule, but the big rule is that Fido keeps her four on the floor.

Metro has several online tools to help their customers build itineraries for the rides and catch their buses.

The Trip Planner is a great tool that allows you to plug in variables such as start and end addresses, date, time, maximum distance you are willing to walk, and other details and it will provide you with an agenda for each leg of your trip.

The Tracker allows you to plug in a bus line number and see, in real time, where that bus is on its route.

Of course there are timetables on the site.

There is also a tool for finding carpool and vanshare partners. This is not only for commuting, but for finding a ride to regional, public events as well.

For travelers with disabilities, there are many accessibility services. In the summertime there is even a water taxi that links downtown to West Seattle.

For the Literati

2006-11-22T07:55:00.000-08:00

Seattle is a town of readers. Bookstores run rampant, as do all kinds of book events, from book fairs, to reading groups, to author readings, to literary lecture series. And because they are so well attended, great folks grace Seattle's literati scene. Often times these events are either free, or very inexpensive. Here are a few good sources

The Seattle Public Library has an ongoing schedule of events. Many are free. Here is my pick of the week:

Isabel Allende

Thursday, November 30 , 7:30 PM
From the SPL website: "Isabel Allende returns to Seattle to read from her new novel, Ines of My Soul. Allende is the celebrated author of such international bestsellers as The House of the Spirits, Eva Luna, and Paula. Her works were featured in the Library’s 2004 series, Seattle Reads Isabel Allende. Presented with Elliott Bay Book Company."

Free, no tickets required. Visit www.spl.org or call 206/386-4636 for more information.

Other ongoing sources for literary events include:

University of Washington Bookstore

Elliott Bay Book Company

Seattle Arts and Lectures

The Richard Hugo House

Nextbook

Third Place Books

Poetswest

Subtext

Nature in the Midst of the City

2006-11-21T14:11:00.000-08:00

Parks in Seattle were planned for early on. The Olmsted brothers conceived of a "string of pearls", a cruising boulevard studded with parks. This plan was largely accomplished and Seattle now has long-established parks throughout the city. Given the prevalence of water and hills, stunning views and water access are common.

The Arboretum is a large city park that lies just southeast of the University in the Madison Valley neighborhood. It has a great trail that cuts across two islands facing the university campus.

Kerry Park on Queen Anne hill has one of THE best views of the city (skip the Space Needle).

Seward Park is a lovely park on Lake Washington that encompasses an entire peninsula into the lake. There is a beautiful walk around it's perimeter as well as an old growth forest trail in the interior.

Volunteer Park, on Capitol hill sports not only a fabulous city view (particularly from the water tower), but also the Asian Art Museum and a conservatory.

Lincoln Park is in West Seattle and has a great walk along the waterfront of Puget Sound.

Discovery Park, in the Magnolia neighborhood, is also a large park and has some amazing views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains.

Art museums and galleries- at least looking can be free

2006-11-17T21:24:00.000-08:00

Here's a starter overview of art museums and galleries worth visiting:

Museums

The Frye Art Museum, on Capitol Hill, is my favorite museum in the city (the building itself is beautiful), always something intriguing and often it stretches me far. The Frye is always free, by its charter.

The Henry Art Museum on the University of Washington campus in the U District is the best venue for modern art. They too always have provocative shows. The Henry is free on Thursdays.

The Seattle Art Museum has three venues. Well... actually right now it only has one, as the main, downtown museum is being remodeled (thank god), and the new sculpture garden is not yet open. None-the-less, the Asian Art Museum branch is open and is a fabulous building in Volunteer Park on Capitol Hill (worth a visit just for the view). Admission to the Seattle Asian Art Museum is free on the first Thursday and first Saturday of each month. The Sculpture Park branch will open in late January and will always be free. The main museum will reopen in May.

Galleries

There is a slew of great art galleries in Seattle. Although they have traditionally centered in Pioneer Square (and there is still a density of galleries there), other neighborhoods are growing their own “gallery alleys”, including Belltown, Ballard, and Georgetown. Here are links to some of my favorites:

The Davidson Galleries
Foster White
The Seders Gallery.com/
Friesen Gallery
Greg Kucera
Kobo
SOIL
Vetri

There is an art walk the first Thursday of every month in the Pioneer Square neighborhood from 6—8pm. Galleries open new shows that evening, often with snacks and wine. Occidental Plaza is always filled that evening with new/young/unrepresented artists selling their wares.

A Very Seattle Christmas

2006-11-16T12:06:00.000-08:00

Like most towns, Seattle has some holiday traditions that are unique and/or flavored heavily by its culture. A few of my low-cost (most are free) favorites are listed below. Visiting the Emerald City during the season of lights? Check a few of these out!

The Figgy Pudding Caroling Contest is a fabulous happening on the streets of downtown Seattle. A fundraiser for the Pike Place Market Senior Center, caroling groups pay a fee to claim a street corner and sing their hearts out. Funny or sublime, mild or raucous, talented or no, they compete for prizes based on your votes. This year it happens on December 1st.

Visiting Pike Place Market all dressed up in lights and trees. The lighting ceremony is on November 25th.

The Christmas Ships are an everchanging flotilla of private and commercial boats that dress up in lights and parade through the waters around Seattle after dark. Led by one of the Argosy ships that each night has a choir on board, they make a few stops in different areas (usually lake- or sound-side parks) for a brief concert. I recommend one of the locations that has a bonfire or other special lighting, such as Madrona Park or Seward Park (get schedule info on the link).

The Caroling Kayakers. These guys are hardy! Another fabulous fundraiser, the carolers pay for the privelege of paddling around Lake Union with Santa in decorated kayaks to carol at houseboats and other shoreline spots.

Greenlake "Pathway of Lights" is a lovely luminaria event at one of the most popular city parks.

The Jinglebell Run. Yet another fabulous, brave-the-cold-and-rain fundraisers (we are a city of do-gooders!), thousands of runners tie bells to their shoes, many dress in costume, and prance a 5k route through downtown, including a tunnel (imagine the acoustics!)

The Volunteer Park Conservatory on Capitol Hill is a great place to shake of the winter chills. This year, on a few choice afternoons (December 10, 17 and 24, 1pm - 2pm) there will be a free harp recital.

Saturday, December 2 , 1:00 PM
Each year, Town Hall sponsors a free holiday concert. This year it celebrates those people who live and work by the sea and will be held on December 2nd.

A few other more generic but noteworthy activities:

Westlake Center - tree & carousel & minorah The tree lighting celebration is November 24th.

The Holiday Parade, also on November 24th.

Winterfest at Seattle Center on lower Queen Anne Hill (where the Space Needle is)

Candy Cane Lane in the Ravenna neighborhood starting December 9th.

Happy Wasseling!

Some Initial Thoughts on Cheap Eats

2006-11-14T20:29:00.000-08:00

Seattle is a foodie town. There are some aMAZing restaurants here. Popularity of bioregional and organic ingredients (of which Cascadia has a wide variety being ocean-side, temperate, and rich in splendid farmland) and strong pan-Asian influences create a foundation for creative, flavorful and varied cuisine.

Fine dining in Seattle can be very expensive, however, with entrees ranging from $18-$35. However, if you can forgo ambiance (and sometimes waitstaff) you can find some very tasty meals for $6-15. Here are a few ideas for affordable dining downtown and in the International District

Food courts have a bad wrap, and usually it's deserved. However, in Seattle they are often a treasure-trove of affordable ethnic dining. This would include the third-floor of Westlake Center which is smack-dab in the middle of the shopping district. You can find Asian noodle dishes, Indian, Greek , sushi, & Mexican, (as well as a McDonald's, which amazingly has the longest line). Prices are mostly around $5-$7.

In the International District, the Uwajimaya Food Court is another gem. A wide range of country-specific Asian and Pacific Island eateries, from Thai to Hawaiian to Korean and more!

If you like spicy middle eastern food/Indian-type food, Cafe Zum Zum will be your Mecca. Fabulous Pakistani lunches for about $7. In the same little outdoor food court, upstairs, there is a Thai place that makes really good Thai sandwiches for about $4.

Tamarind Tree is a particular hidden favorite of mine. Tucked away in the back of an International District strip mall, your search will be gratified by luscious Vietnamese food, priced from $7 for a dinner entree. Parking is horrible, so walk, bus, or carpool if you can.

FareStart, a non-profit that provides gourmet food service training to the homeless, has two cafes that serve fabulous lunches priced from $6-$11.

Here are some links to additional recommendations from local food critics (you may see some overlap):

Northwest Source
City Search
Seattle PI
AOL

Lodging Ideas for a Tight Budget

2006-11-13T12:50:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of really nice hotels in Seattle. And really nice equals really expensive. There are many moderately priced hotels as well. Sometimes that is even too expensive, plus a moderate price most often equals a moderate experience. There are options to the hotel/motel/fluffy, victorian B&B scenes that also offer a more personalized experience in the city.

If you have never heard of Craigslist. Know it now. In Craigslist's own words, it is a, "local community classifieds and forums - a place to find jobs, housing, goods & services, social activities, a girlfriend or boyfriend, advice, community information, and just about anything else -- all for free, and in a relatively non-commercial environment."

Craigslist is a huge phenomenon in Seattle. Folks swear by it for buying, selling, finding jobs, apartments, band members, community groups, etc. I had one friend tell me that she she's had such good luck with Craigslist, sometimes thinks that if she typed in "truth" or "God," She'd find it there.

Anyway, there is a section under the Seattle site for sublets and temporary housing. Particularly if you are planning to stay for more than a few days, this is a good page to browse. There are even "by the night" postings at times. There is also a "housing wanted" page and a "house swap" page.

Which brings me to another tip: Housing Exchange programs. If you own a home or rent a place you can loan out, there are programs to match travelers who are willing to let others stay in their home in exchange for the same in a city they'd like to travel to. A couple organizations recommended to me are: Intervac, and Home Exchange. Members can make decisions around whether they allow children, smokers, etc. and whether they will allow use of other amenities, such as the car. Read the sites for rules and the full process.

An even more intimate option is Couch Surfing. Where people offer a free place to stay for a traveler for the sake of meeting new people from around the world. Of course this also means you are willing to make the same offer to your hosts, or others, at some earlier or later date.

Finally, last but not least, Seattle does have a hostel that has great rates and is smack-dab downtown. It is right under the Pike Place Market, which is a classic Seattle landmark and is just blocks from other sights.

Welcome to Seattle Song

2006-11-12T15:14:00.000-08:00

Seattle thrives on the arts and cuisine, on outdoor recreation and intriguing thoughts, on community service and progressive politics. It is both sleek and crunchy-granola. It is a beautiful city with views of mountains and water in every direction. Nature pushes in close. I love where I live. Seattle and its surroundings are an amazing place to visit and to live.

The inevitable result, then, is that Seattle is also an expensive city. That is, if you don't know where to look. This blog will be covering life in the Emerald City, particularly for the newcomer or visitor, and with an eye to making it happen on a budget.

But before I start making suggestions, lets get you oriented. Seattle, Washington is in the Pacific Northwest, or Cascadia, region of the United States. It sits on the edge of Puget Sound, a large, salt-water inlet of the Pacific Ocean. To its West, on the Olympic Peninsula, are the Olympic Mountains. To its East are Lake Washington and the Cascade Mountains. Seattle is called "the City of Seven Hills", although there are actually more than that. Although this makes driving a drag during our 3 days per year of snow, it gives virtually everyone at least a sliver of a beautiful view from their neighborhood. The city also encompasses other lakes, including Lake Union and Green Lake.

If you want to stay central to the downtown area, neighborhoods to consider include: Belltown, Pioneer Square, Queen Anne Hill, First Hill, South Lake Union, the International District and Capital Hill. From these neighborhoods, you can walk to downtown. Other central neighborhoods that are an easy bus ride to downtown include: Wallingford, Fremont, Madison Park, Madrona, East Lake, Leschi, Mount Baker, the University District, the Central District and Beacon Hill. Other areas, such as Green Lake, Phinney Ridge, Ballard, Georgetown, West Seattle, and Magnolia are great areas, but are further from the downtown core. Here is a neighborhood map and a link to neighborhood association sites to help. Unlike many other American cities, where the urban neighborhoods are pretty much the same, each neighborhood in Seattle has it's own, distinct personality. Do some research, including Googling, to find which area appeals to you most! Later on, I will delve more indepth on these cool neighborhoods individually, with sightseeing, shopping, and eating ideas.

Tomorrow's blog: Where to stay on the cheap.