A Follow up on Ballard Past and Present

Yesterday, the Seattle Times published a front page story of the blending and clashing of the old and new Ballard. It also mentioned the Ballard Historical Society. Both the article and the Society's website are good reads.

A Day (or so) in: Ballard

Note: This post is one of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are included, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

For a taste of both Old-School and New-School Seattle living in blended harmony, the neighborhood of Ballard is your destination. Situated in Northwest Seattle along the shore of Puget Sound, Ballard is the epicenter of Seattle’s long-standing Scandinavian community. It is also a hub of the fishing trade for the city.

Left: The brick-paved, tree-shaded shopping street of Ballard Ave. on a quiet afternoon.

With a staunch, proudly blue-collar image and long, independent-minded history, Ballard has become a magnet for artists and craftsmen as well as a new generation of fisherpeople and shipbuilders. You will find cafes that still serve up lutefisk (eeesh) and Maxwell House to the older generations of Swedes and Norwegeans and newer restaurants that list Copper River salmon and Café Vita espresso on the menu. The folks here are real, and there’s a wide range.

Right: One of the many funky little car mechanic shops in the 'hood... this one obviously with a sense of humor!

Below: A ship in drydock on the Ballard waterfront.

What to do, What to do….

Get a sense of Ballard Past by visiting the Nordic Heritage Museum. Apparently, it is the only museum in the U.S. to honor the immigrants from the Nordic countries. Here in Seattle, it is a relevant institution. Not only are there historical exhibits, but also ongoing events which are well attended, including a Christmas Pageant, concert series and Scandinavian art exhibitions.

Next Head to the Chittenden Locks to watch ships of all sorts move from the freshwater lakes to the salt water sound. You will see everything from huge container ships to single-person kayaks take the ride up and down. The Locks also host a well used fish ladder where many varieties of salmon can be seen migrating throughout the year. Finally, stroll the botanical gardens and find a nice perch over the locks for a picnic lunch.

Another great picnic spot is Golden Gardens park, just west of downtown ballard. It is a waterfront park with sandy beaches where you will find kids making sandcastles, beach volleyball games, and many, many sunbathers on the warmest days. From Golden Gardens, you can soak in views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains and catch a stunning sunset over the water.

If it is art you crave, visit the neighborhood on the second Saturday of the month to participate in the Ballard Art Walk. Galleries stay open late and often showcase new exhibits for this event, sharing wine and appetizers.

If it’s performing arts you crave, visit Live Girls Theater to attend a play, comedy, or poetry reading. This theater supports women artists by showcasing their work.

If it’s music you seek, check out who’s playing at the The Tractor Tavern. A long standing venue for local talent as well as touring bands, the Tractor is a staple in the Seattle music scene (and they serve good beer!)

Shopping in Ballard

There are far too many great shops in Ballard to try to list them. Suffice it to say, perusing Ballard Avenue alone could be a weekend’s project. Market St., which crosses Ballard Ave., is also filled with shops, markets and cafes. Here are a couple resources to get you going:
NWSource.com, and
InBallard.com

Above: Ballard Ave. is chock-a-block full of fabulous shops from clothing and shoes to home furnishing and pet supplies

Eatin’ & Drinkin’

Right: Portalis is a sweet little wine bar on Ballard Ave.

Hattie’s Hat, a venerable Ballard institution is where you will find old-time Ballard stalwarts and young-folk mixing and matching.

Ray’s Boathouse is another Ballard Tradition, albeit more upscale than Hattie’s Hat. This is where you go to watch that sunset with a cocktail or morsel of salmon in hand.

Restaruante Michoacan, reportedly some of the best Mexican food in Seattle.

Volterra… amaaaaazing Italian.

Dandelion Café… a hip, newer eatery.

Larsen’s Original Bakery is where you will find the real thing when looking for a “Danish”.

Café Besalu, another great bakery that trends more modern than Larsen’s traditional.

Dish D’lish is a casual little eat in/take out joint by Seattle foodie celeb, Kathy Casey.


More Drinks…

More Eats…

Where to Stay???

If anyone knows of a good hotel, inn or B&B in Ballard, please comment! This is the one thing that seems to be missing from the world of Ballard.

Coffee-Counter Culture

Sometimes there is truth behind a stereotype. One such true myth is that of the caffeine-propelled, latte-swilling Seattlite. We looooooooove our coffee. (Although, some of us prefer our brew straight-up. I’m a cup-a-joe girl, myself.) We spend top dollar to cozy a big mug of fine java, or score a pound of lovingly roasted beans. It is also true, I am sad to say, that lines at Starbucks can wind through the shop 30 espresso-fixated customers deep.

Mind you, Starbucks does a fine job… a wide range of descent coffee drinks whirled out like baseballs in a batting cage. For what they do, which is ensure consistent, good quality at high volume, they have it down. However… if you are looking for great coffee, something unique, and to linger over it in a coffeehouse with ambience and local personality – and fabulous pastries, check out a few of these favorite neighborhood coffeehouses:

Ballard:
Sip & Ship

Belltown:
Bellino Coffee
Macrina Bakery
Uptown Espresso

Capitol Hill:
B and O Espresso (No website)
Bauhaus Coffee
Café Vita
Victrola

Fremont:
Canal St. Coffee (no website)
Icon Coffee (no website)

Madrona:
Verite Coffee

Pioneer Square:
Zeitgeist

Queen Anne:
El Diablo
Caffe Ladro
Uptown Espresso

University District
Café Allegro (no website)

There are, oh-so-many more wonderful neighborhood coffeehouses (and so many more neighborhoods for that matter). These are those I know, personally, to be great. I recommend you check out Caffinated & Unstrung for the full lowdown on where to go when you’re in the ‘hood, no matter which ‘hood it is.

Finally, Here are a few of the stellar roasters in the city. Like some small wineries, often their volume is so small, you can’t find their product unless you go to their shop (or call and order):

Roasters:
Vivace Espresso
Caffe Ladro
Café Vita
http://www.victrolacoffee.com

The Kitsch Factor

For those who get their kicks on the funky side of life, here's a sampling of Seattle's kitschy destinations:

Rat City Roller Girls

Yes, roller derby has had a renaissance in Seattle in the form of an all-women team in a growing league. Although this is honest competition and true athletics, these gals play up the camp as well, with stage names such as "Dirty Little Secret," Burnett Down," and "Diva Skate" as well as personalizing thier uniforms with details such as fishnet stockings, cat ears on helmets, and face paint. They have a rabid fan base. Check out the "Hall of Pain" injury gallery on the website!

Sunset Bowl

For those of you who prefer to participate in your sports, check out Sunset Bowl, a Seattle landmark in Ballard that continues to draw crowds with 24x7 (yes, it's true) hours and some of the rockin'-est Karaoke in Seattle in the nagahide-covered lounge. Check out some local reviews...

Archie McPhee's

The kitschiest shop in the kitschiest neighborhood in Seattle (Fremont), Archie McPhee's is the epicenter of funny, funky STUFF. These are the folks who brought us the action-figure librarian (modeled after our own Nancy Pearl), among other treasures. Stepping into this store is like stepping into a carnival.

Deluxe Junk

Also in Fremont, Deluxe Junk is a mecca for midcentury modern furnishings and vintage, Hollywood inspired tiki and Asian decor. Everything is in pristine condition and artfully merchandised. You will lose track of time here.

13 Coins

If you want to take your camp in a different direction, 13 Coins, a rat-packy old-school classic of Seattle, is the place to head. These guys are the best kind of kitch... they are not trying to be that way, they've just never changed! Open 24 hours a day, they serve up classics such as jumbo shrimp on ice, eggs benedict, and baked salmon. Try to snag a high-backed counter seat to watch the cooks flip omlettes and steaks over high-licking flames.