A Follow up on Ballard Past and Present

Yesterday, the Seattle Times published a front page story of the blending and clashing of the old and new Ballard. It also mentioned the Ballard Historical Society. Both the article and the Society's website are good reads.

A Day (or so) in: Ballard

Note: This post is one of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are included, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

For a taste of both Old-School and New-School Seattle living in blended harmony, the neighborhood of Ballard is your destination. Situated in Northwest Seattle along the shore of Puget Sound, Ballard is the epicenter of Seattle’s long-standing Scandinavian community. It is also a hub of the fishing trade for the city.

Left: The brick-paved, tree-shaded shopping street of Ballard Ave. on a quiet afternoon.

With a staunch, proudly blue-collar image and long, independent-minded history, Ballard has become a magnet for artists and craftsmen as well as a new generation of fisherpeople and shipbuilders. You will find cafes that still serve up lutefisk (eeesh) and Maxwell House to the older generations of Swedes and Norwegeans and newer restaurants that list Copper River salmon and Café Vita espresso on the menu. The folks here are real, and there’s a wide range.

Right: One of the many funky little car mechanic shops in the 'hood... this one obviously with a sense of humor!

Below: A ship in drydock on the Ballard waterfront.

What to do, What to do….

Get a sense of Ballard Past by visiting the Nordic Heritage Museum. Apparently, it is the only museum in the U.S. to honor the immigrants from the Nordic countries. Here in Seattle, it is a relevant institution. Not only are there historical exhibits, but also ongoing events which are well attended, including a Christmas Pageant, concert series and Scandinavian art exhibitions.

Next Head to the Chittenden Locks to watch ships of all sorts move from the freshwater lakes to the salt water sound. You will see everything from huge container ships to single-person kayaks take the ride up and down. The Locks also host a well used fish ladder where many varieties of salmon can be seen migrating throughout the year. Finally, stroll the botanical gardens and find a nice perch over the locks for a picnic lunch.

Another great picnic spot is Golden Gardens park, just west of downtown ballard. It is a waterfront park with sandy beaches where you will find kids making sandcastles, beach volleyball games, and many, many sunbathers on the warmest days. From Golden Gardens, you can soak in views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains and catch a stunning sunset over the water.

If it is art you crave, visit the neighborhood on the second Saturday of the month to participate in the Ballard Art Walk. Galleries stay open late and often showcase new exhibits for this event, sharing wine and appetizers.

If it’s performing arts you crave, visit Live Girls Theater to attend a play, comedy, or poetry reading. This theater supports women artists by showcasing their work.

If it’s music you seek, check out who’s playing at the The Tractor Tavern. A long standing venue for local talent as well as touring bands, the Tractor is a staple in the Seattle music scene (and they serve good beer!)

Shopping in Ballard

There are far too many great shops in Ballard to try to list them. Suffice it to say, perusing Ballard Avenue alone could be a weekend’s project. Market St., which crosses Ballard Ave., is also filled with shops, markets and cafes. Here are a couple resources to get you going:
NWSource.com, and
InBallard.com

Above: Ballard Ave. is chock-a-block full of fabulous shops from clothing and shoes to home furnishing and pet supplies

Eatin’ & Drinkin’

Right: Portalis is a sweet little wine bar on Ballard Ave.

Hattie’s Hat, a venerable Ballard institution is where you will find old-time Ballard stalwarts and young-folk mixing and matching.

Ray’s Boathouse is another Ballard Tradition, albeit more upscale than Hattie’s Hat. This is where you go to watch that sunset with a cocktail or morsel of salmon in hand.

Restaruante Michoacan, reportedly some of the best Mexican food in Seattle.

Volterra… amaaaaazing Italian.

Dandelion Café… a hip, newer eatery.

Larsen’s Original Bakery is where you will find the real thing when looking for a “Danish”.

Café Besalu, another great bakery that trends more modern than Larsen’s traditional.

Dish D’lish is a casual little eat in/take out joint by Seattle foodie celeb, Kathy Casey.


More Drinks…

More Eats…

Where to Stay???

If anyone knows of a good hotel, inn or B&B in Ballard, please comment! This is the one thing that seems to be missing from the world of Ballard.

Coffee-Counter Culture

Sometimes there is truth behind a stereotype. One such true myth is that of the caffeine-propelled, latte-swilling Seattlite. We looooooooove our coffee. (Although, some of us prefer our brew straight-up. I’m a cup-a-joe girl, myself.) We spend top dollar to cozy a big mug of fine java, or score a pound of lovingly roasted beans. It is also true, I am sad to say, that lines at Starbucks can wind through the shop 30 espresso-fixated customers deep.

Mind you, Starbucks does a fine job… a wide range of descent coffee drinks whirled out like baseballs in a batting cage. For what they do, which is ensure consistent, good quality at high volume, they have it down. However… if you are looking for great coffee, something unique, and to linger over it in a coffeehouse with ambience and local personality – and fabulous pastries, check out a few of these favorite neighborhood coffeehouses:

Ballard:
Sip & Ship

Belltown:
Bellino Coffee
Macrina Bakery
Uptown Espresso

Capitol Hill:
B and O Espresso (No website)
Bauhaus Coffee
Café Vita
Victrola

Fremont:
Canal St. Coffee (no website)
Icon Coffee (no website)

Madrona:
Verite Coffee

Pioneer Square:
Zeitgeist

Queen Anne:
El Diablo
Caffe Ladro
Uptown Espresso

University District
Café Allegro (no website)

There are, oh-so-many more wonderful neighborhood coffeehouses (and so many more neighborhoods for that matter). These are those I know, personally, to be great. I recommend you check out Caffinated & Unstrung for the full lowdown on where to go when you’re in the ‘hood, no matter which ‘hood it is.

Finally, Here are a few of the stellar roasters in the city. Like some small wineries, often their volume is so small, you can’t find their product unless you go to their shop (or call and order):

Roasters:
Vivace Espresso
Caffe Ladro
Café Vita
http://www.victrolacoffee.com

The Kitsch Factor

For those who get their kicks on the funky side of life, here's a sampling of Seattle's kitschy destinations:

Rat City Roller Girls

Yes, roller derby has had a renaissance in Seattle in the form of an all-women team in a growing league. Although this is honest competition and true athletics, these gals play up the camp as well, with stage names such as "Dirty Little Secret," Burnett Down," and "Diva Skate" as well as personalizing thier uniforms with details such as fishnet stockings, cat ears on helmets, and face paint. They have a rabid fan base. Check out the "Hall of Pain" injury gallery on the website!

Sunset Bowl

For those of you who prefer to participate in your sports, check out Sunset Bowl, a Seattle landmark in Ballard that continues to draw crowds with 24x7 (yes, it's true) hours and some of the rockin'-est Karaoke in Seattle in the nagahide-covered lounge. Check out some local reviews...

Archie McPhee's

The kitschiest shop in the kitschiest neighborhood in Seattle (Fremont), Archie McPhee's is the epicenter of funny, funky STUFF. These are the folks who brought us the action-figure librarian (modeled after our own Nancy Pearl), among other treasures. Stepping into this store is like stepping into a carnival.

Deluxe Junk

Also in Fremont, Deluxe Junk is a mecca for midcentury modern furnishings and vintage, Hollywood inspired tiki and Asian decor. Everything is in pristine condition and artfully merchandised. You will lose track of time here.

13 Coins

If you want to take your camp in a different direction, 13 Coins, a rat-packy old-school classic of Seattle, is the place to head. These guys are the best kind of kitch... they are not trying to be that way, they've just never changed! Open 24 hours a day, they serve up classics such as jumbo shrimp on ice, eggs benedict, and baked salmon. Try to snag a high-backed counter seat to watch the cooks flip omlettes and steaks over high-licking flames.

A Day (or so) In: The Pike Place Market

Note: This post is the first of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are organized in itinerary form, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

Overview:
Granted, the Pike Place Market is not a neighborhood, officially, but it certainly should be. The Market is the epicenter of Seattle for tourists and residents alike. Perched in a stellar setting over Elliott Bay in downtown, it is central to all of the city. Just about everything one would need for daily living is found in this historic, patinaed landmark. Produce and flower stalls, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, breweries, cheese makers, and ethnic grocers abound (as do local craft stalls and the more generic souvenir shops). There are restaurants, shops, services, and apartments. There is even a health clinic, a senior center and a daycare facility in the greater, 12+ block labyrinth of the Market.

Checking in: There are two places to consider staying at the Market. For those traveling on the proverbial shoe string, the HI-Seattle Hostel is a real bargain. This clean, and secure hostel is right in the lower part of the Market and dorm beds start at $25 per night. For those with more leeway in their budget, the bed and breakfast, Pension Nichols, offers the best value for ambience, location and amenities. (It is also, by the way, pet friendly!) Rooms start at $120 per night for double occupancy.

Morning:
Start your day at the Market with a hearty oatmeal or egg-&-bacon breakfast at the Soundview Café. It is a cafeteria-style diner with one of the best views in town. A counter seat at the west wall proffers a sweeping vista of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains (on sunny days). This place is frequented by locals, and the café even has an area for folks bringing their own brown bag meals.

Then, walk all the calories off by exploring the main drag of the Market, Pike Place, and the adjacent walking street, Post Alley. Take pictures, listen to buskers (there is a fabulous A-cappella singing group that is often in front of the original Starbuck’s shop), take in the stunning view from Victor Steinbrueck Park at the north end of the market, and do a whole lot of tasting and window shopping. Some of my favorite haunts include: Sur La Table (the original shop), The Souk, DeLaurenti, Metsker Maps, Left Bank Books, Market Spice, and Raven’s Nest.

Afternoon:
On a nice day, shopping for picnic groceries for lunch at the park is a fun option. If you do, check out Beecher’s Cheese and the deli counter at DeLaurenti’s for some nice additions to your basket. If the weather is less than accommodating, there is a myriad of small lunch spots and take out counters to choose from. You can find humbow to yeeros, piroshky to pizza. These are your most affordable options. For great food and ambience at reasonable (but not cheap) prices, try Maximilien Bistro for GREAT salads and french onion soup or, Matt’s in the Market for fabulous seafood. During tourist season, you may need a reservation for either.

Fueled up again, now head “Downunder” to the lower levels of the Market. You will find a playground of unique, kitchy shops, like Market Magic, F & J Great Western Trading Co., and Holy Cow Records. Let yourself get lost in the maze of shops. Any shopkeeper will help you find your way out.

Evening:
For dinner, head to the bar at the Pink Door. This whimsical, romantic little Italian joint is a favorite place for Seattlites to meet up with friends. If it is summer, try to snag a table on the patio. Their antipasti menu is very reasonable as is their house wine. For a treat, try their blue martini called “Parfait Amore”. Later in the evenings there is usually live music and sometimes a fabulous cabaret.

If you want to keep going, just across Post Alley from the Pink Door is Kells, an Irish (surprise-surprise) restaurant and pub that also has live music on the weekends.

And if you want to keep going in the wee hours, Le Pichet stays open until 2am, serving French Bistro fare, good espresso and wine.

Wikitravel.org on Seattle

Wikitravel has a very useful and user-friendly overview article on Seattle with lots and lots of info for visiting the city. It drills down on many of the neighborhoods, and provides ideas for things to see & do, places to eat & stay, and how to get around. I highly recommend this as a primer to the city.

Welcome to Seattle Song

Seattle thrives on the arts and cuisine, on outdoor recreation and intriguing thoughts, on community service and progressive politics. It is both sleek and crunchy-granola. It is a beautiful city with views of mountains and water in every direction. Nature pushes in close. I love where I live. Seattle and its surroundings are an amazing place to visit and to live.

The inevitable result, then, is that Seattle is also an expensive city. That is, if you don't know where to look. This blog will be covering life in the Emerald City, particularly for the newcomer or visitor, and with an eye to making it happen on a budget.

But before I start making suggestions, lets get you oriented. Seattle, Washington is in the Pacific Northwest, or Cascadia, region of the United States. It sits on the edge of Puget Sound, a large, salt-water inlet of the Pacific Ocean. To its West, on the Olympic Peninsula, are the Olympic Mountains. To its East are Lake Washington and the Cascade Mountains. Seattle is called "the City of Seven Hills", although there are actually more than that. Although this makes driving a drag during our 3 days per year of snow, it gives virtually everyone at least a sliver of a beautiful view from their neighborhood. The city also encompasses other lakes, including Lake Union and Green Lake.

If you want to stay central to the downtown area, neighborhoods to consider include: Belltown, Pioneer Square, Queen Anne Hill, First Hill, South Lake Union, the International District and Capital Hill. From these neighborhoods, you can walk to downtown. Other central neighborhoods that are an easy bus ride to downtown include: Wallingford, Fremont, Madison Park, Madrona, East Lake, Leschi, Mount Baker, the University District, the Central District and Beacon Hill. Other areas, such as Green Lake, Phinney Ridge, Ballard, Georgetown, West Seattle, and Magnolia are great areas, but are further from the downtown core. Here is a neighborhood map and a link to neighborhood association sites to help. Unlike many other American cities, where the urban neighborhoods are pretty much the same, each neighborhood in Seattle has it's own, distinct personality. Do some research, including Googling, to find which area appeals to you most! Later on, I will delve more indepth on these cool neighborhoods individually, with sightseeing, shopping, and eating ideas.

Tomorrow's blog: Where to stay on the cheap.