Weekenders: Orcas Island - A Center of the Cascadia Universe

This post is one of an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

About 100 miles north of Seattle, in the most northwest corner of the contiguous US lies a group of craggy, evergreen, windswept islands called the San Juans. They are part of a larger archipelago that reaches north along the BC coast.

Above: A view of the hamlet of Olga on Orcas Island

The San Juan Islands include far over 100 islands. Many are tiny holding, at times, a single tree. Some are completely owned by a single person. Some are entirely state parks, complete with docks, mooring bouys, and basic camping facilities such as water spigots, fire rings, and outhouses. Only four of these islands have sizeable populations: San Juan, Lopez, Shaw and Orcas. These are also the only four islands in San Juan County that are accessible by the Washington State Ferries. As the WSFs are by far the most affordable way to travel to the islands, these four islands have become even more populated and have developed into destinations for travelers.

Left: Riding the Washington State Ferry

Each of the four major islands has its own individual charm and unique landmarks and assets. Each has accommodations and parks and historic sights. Orcas, although not the largest or most populated (San Juan Island is), seems to be the most popular with visitors. It may have to do with the charm of East Sound, the only town on the island. It could be the marketing muscle behind historic Rosario Resort. Or it might be that Orcas has, by far, the highest point in the county, Mount Constitution in Moran State Park, from the top of which on a clear day one can see as far north as Canada and behold breathtaking views of Mt. Baker, the Olympic Peninsula, and nearer bird’s eye views of the islands themselves.

Right: A view southwest toward Lopez Island after sunset from Buck Bay

This mild, sunny region (due to a “rain shadow” created by the Olympic Mountains, the San Juans get about ½ the rainfall of Seattle), is rich in wildlife from eagles, loons and herons, to whales, seals, otters, and deer. Orcas Island, approximately 60 square miles in size and with a year around population of about 5000, is also rich in landscape, arts, and activities. It has such a vast spectrum of things to do and see it’s hard to know where to start in describing Orcas and highlighting the must-see sights. Nonetheless, here is an intrepid attempt:

How To Get There

To drive to Orcas (recommended due to its size and limited rental car service), you must plan ahead, particularly in the summertime. There are a limited number of ferries to Orcas each day. Check the WSF website for the schedule. You cannot reserve a space, and boats fill up in the summertime, so depending on the day and time (Thursdays and Fridays are most popular), you should arrive at the landing between 1 and 3 hours ahead of your intended sailing time.

Left: 90 minutes before the ferry departs on a Friday in April

Directions: From Seattle, drive North on I-5 about 65 miles to exit 230.
At exit 230 head west on highway 20 approximately 15 miles to Anacortes.
Head north on Commercial Ave a little over a mile, then follow signs west to the Washington State Ferry Landing.

Flights are also available through San Juan Airlines and Kenmore Air.

Activities

Scenic Drive Destinations
•
West Sound is a sweet little crossroads on, you guessed it, the western half of the island. There is a small inn and café with a view south to the water. Getting there, you drive through farmland reminiscent of Ireland with its sheep and grassy expanses.
• Deer Harbor is a step beyond West Sound, and offers views of a snug little harbor after a trek along a rocky shoreline.
• Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park on the east side of the island is a long, windy drive up and up through fir forests breaking open to ever-more breath taking views as you climb.

Above: A summer solstice sunrise from the top of Mt. Constitution, looking across Lummi Island toward Mt. Baker. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad.


• Olga, a couple miles south of Moran Park, is small, quaint and intimate. The Orcas Artworks is there, with Café Olga, and a drive down to the road’s end offers a peek into hamlet life on the island. A dock, gazebo, potter’s workshop, community hall and park, and a post office being the highlights

Above: The public dock in Olga

Hiking

• Moran State Park offers several hiking trails of varying length and difficulty, two beautiful and COLD lakes which are perfect for trout fishing (in season) and non-motorized boating (paddle and row boats can be rented in the summer), and comfortable camping facilities.

Left: Cascadia Falls in Moran State Park

Right: Hiking Mt. Pickett in Moran State Park

• Turtleback Mountain, recently saved from the threat of development through the efforts of the San Juan Preservation Trust is another hiking gem of the island, only recently opened to the public for hiking.
• Obstruction Pass Park is a locals’ favorite. A short, flat hike through fir and madrona forest and dense salal leads to a beautiful rocky beach. A few campsites are available.
• Madrona Point is a small park and sacred Lummi burial site just a few short blocks from “downtown” Eastsound. It offers an easy, short hike to views south out of the Sound. Grab a picnic lunch at Roses Bakery or Island Market and head over.

The Arts
• The Orcas Center,hosts local and visiting performances of theater and music. If you see a local group on the calendar, don’t shy away… Orcas is a magnet for artists of all kinds and the talent shows up on stage.
• Orcas Grange hosts the occasional dance, which is supposed to be truly a wonderful time.
• Orcas Artworks shows and sells fine art and craft only from full-time residents of the island. Membership in the co-op is competitive and prospective members’ work is juried.
Left: A self-serve flower stand across the street from the Artworks. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad







• Howe Art is a magical, kinetic sculpture garden and gallery.
• Crow Valley Pottery is both beautiful and historic.
• Lamiel Museum is a continuously evolving collection of local art in a private home.
• Other Ideas

History
• Orcas History Museum is a sweet little place in Eastsound, comprised of several historic cabins from the island which have been moved and attached. Learn about the Native American tribes and the European pioneers as well as later history through the depression and world wars.
• Rosario Resort was originally the private home of Robert Moran, a wealthy Seattle shipbuilder. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century and is a lovely place to tour. Robert Moran was also a great patron of the island, developing and donating the land that would become Moran State Park to Washington State.

Shopping in Eastsound
Here are a few Cascadia Girl favorites:
• Farmer’s Market
• Tres Fabu
• Olga’s
• Darvill’s Bookstore

So Much More
• Kayaking, Whale Watching, Fishing, Spas, Sailing are just a few of the other activities on Orcas. Here is a good resource for finding outfitters, charters, rental companies, etc: thesanjuans.com

Where To Stay

Inns and B&Bs
Turtleback Farm Inn
Kangaroo House
Buck Bay Farm
Inn at Ship Bay
Outlook Inn
Deer Harbor Inn
Kingfish Inn

There are far more options than the ones listed here, but it is a start. Here is a resource for more ideas: gonorthwest.com

Camping and Other
Moran State Park Note: Try to reserve a camping spot NOT along the main road.
Vacation Rentals Note: These are for longer stays. Usual minimum rental is 1 week.
Doe Bay Resort Note: Very crunchy-granola funky.
Rosario Resort Note: Very popular due to strong advertising and long history. Some folks love it. Not a Cascadia Girl favorite, however the spa there is said to be very nice.

Dining
As with the accommodation list, the array of options for dining is far wider than the list here. However, all those listed below have the “Cascadia Girl Seal of Approval.”

Casual, less expensive, options
• Café Olga
• Rose’s Bakery
• The Kitchen
• Portofino Pizzeria
• Bilbo’s Festiva
• Westsound Café

Fine Dining
• Inn at Ship Bay Note: Their scallops are heavenly.
• Olga’s
• Christina’s
• Deer Harbor Inn

Other Information Resources
The list above does not begin to do justice to highlighting all the attractions of Orcas… there is just so much. Therefore, here are a few more resources for research and dreaming:
• Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce
• Guide to the San Juans

Weekenders: Mount Hood & Timberline Lodge

This post is part of an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

About an hour east of Portland, Oregon sits Mount Hood, the state's highest mountain. It is to Oregon what Mount Rainier is to Washington: a point of orientation, a comforting icon of home, an outdoor recreationalist's haven. The mountain is almost entirely National Forest land, with much of it designated as wilderness. Climbing, hiking, and skiing are all year-around activities there.

Mount Hood also has a treasure trove of history in Timberline Lodge, a gorgeous hand-built lodge constructed at the height of the 1930s depression by the WPA (Works Progress Administration). Forest workers and WPA artists worked long hours to complete the entire project in less than two years, from early 1936 to late 1937, and was dedicated by President Roosevelt.

Above: Outside of Timberline Lodge. Look familiar? The lodge was used for the outside shots in "The Shining."

The lodge, which operates to this day as an inn, was dedicated as a national historic landmark in 1978. It is also a "living" piece of American craft from woodcarving to wrought iron works, from weaving, applique, and painting to mosaic, carved linoleum, and stained glass.

Left: A pelican banister post leads to a stairwell paneled with a carved wood mural and lit by a hand wrought iron lamp.

Left: A mosaic illustration of Mt Hood wildlife is the back splash for the brass water fountain.

Since the mid 1970's the lodge has been maintained and restored by a dedicated group of volunteer artisans, called the Friends of Timberline, who work diligently to preserve, repair and when necessary replace craftwork in the same manner the original pieces were created.
Left: Note the loom next to the ranger's desk. Visitors can often watch artists recreating fabrics to replace worn out draperies and furniture cushions.

Many of the rooms in Timberline are dedicated to the lodge's history, from its creation to its famous visitors to the evolution of Mt. Hood as a destination for outdoor recreation.


Above: Pictures from early-day visitors.
Left: The story of how local Campfire Girls designed the insignia for the lodge. Campfire has long been an icon of Northwest living.




The video clip below provides a glimpse of the Lodge's great room.


How To Get There

From Seattle, take I-5 south to I-205. Continue south on I-205 to I-84 east. Heading east on I-84, take exit 16 and follow signs to US-26. Continue on US-26 to Timberline Highway, which takes you right to the lodge.

Where To Stay

You would be cheating yourself if you stayed anywhere other thanTimberline, especially in the wintertime. Given the beauty and historic significance of the lodge, as well as the ski lifts being right out the door, the prices are very reasonable ($90-$255). However, if you can't get reservations or prefer to camp (summer only) the local chamber of commerce can point you to other places to stay.

Where to Eat

Again, really, the place to be when you visit Timberline is Timberline. The lodge has a fabulous fine-dining room in the Cascade Dining Room. The Ram's Head Bar is great for lunch with a view of the skiers. The Blue Ox Bar is another option.

Down the mountain in Government Camp, the Huckleberry Inn is the place for breakfast. The huckleberry pancakes are a must. Further on, in Welches, is a great little Mexican joint called El Burro Loco.

Above: The view to the slopes from the Ram's Head Bar.

Where to Play

For the snow sports:
Timberline, of course, has a very nice ski area that takes you far up the mountain onto its famous glaciers. The largest (and nicest) area is a bit further east at Mount Hood Meadows
Ski Bowl is the least expensive... for a reason.
Snow Bunny is a long-standing inner tubing site for snow-loving non-skier.

For summer activities, the Mount Hood Information Center has lots of great info and links on camping, hiking, climbing, fishing, festivals and more.

Weekenders: The Methow Valley

This is the first in an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

On the eastern border of Cascadia, where Highway 20 touches down from a flight through the North Cascades, there is a magical place called the Methow Valley. This region, half wilderness and half cowboy country, is an outdoor recreationalist’s dream, both in the summer and the winter. Although it is a “working” valley of farms and ranches, it is also a mecca for Seattlites craving real seasons; the heat of summer and the snow of winter.

This time of year, many of the ranchers and farmers open their fields for cross-country skiers. There is over 100 miles of groomed cross-country trail in the valley. Track, skate, and back country skiers flock to the valley from December to early March. There are ample snowshoeing trails as well, and each year there are more trails (ski and snowshoe) that are open to dogs!!

Above: The dog-friendly, "Big Valley" trail just east of Mazama

In the summer, many of the ski trails continue to be publicly accessible for walking and mountain biking. There are also many great hiking trails in the national forest. Climbers scour Goat Wall. There is hiking and horseback riding. There are music festivals and rodeos.

How To Get There

Getting to the Valley is the only challenge. From Seattle in the wintertime, the drive is at least five hours. Travelers must take either Steven’s Pass (Highway 2) or Snoqualmie Pass (I-90) to Blewett Pass (Highway 97). The North Cascades Highway (Highway 20) is closed in the winter due to heavy snow and avalanche danger. However, the 20 is the undeniable route to take in the summer. Each journey is beautiful, but the 20 is unsurpassed.

Where To Stay

In the wintertime, the preferred destinations are the communities closest to the mountains. Early Winters, Mazama and Winthrop are the areas that will have the best snow. There are many affordable, little cabin motels in the Valley, including Winthrop. My favorite Winthrop accommodation, however, is the Duck Brand Hotel and Cantina. It is a comfortable spot right in kitschy, "old western", downtown Winthrop with very reasonable prices. For a more all-inclusive and swankier stay, try the wonderful Mazama Country Inn. The hearty yet gourmet meals are served family-style in the winter, and they set up a brown bag buffet so you can pack a trail lunch for your ski day. Many folks like the Sun Mountain Lodge, a classic hotel/resort on the south rise of the valley.

Grub

There is a wide selection of great, inexpensive food in the Valley. Here's just a small selection:

Mazama Country Store in Mazama
Topo Cafe (Asian) in Winthrop
Duck Brand Cantina (Mexican) in Winthrop
The Twisp River Pub in Twisp
Tappi (Italian) in Twisp
The Cinnamon Twisp Bakery in Twisp
The Blackbird Cafe in Twisp

All dining in the Valley is casual, or at least casual optional. Never worry about walking in in jeans and boots!

Gearing Up

Winthrop Mountain Sports is the favorite outdoor clothing and equipment shop in the valley.

The Trails End Bookstore in Winthrop is your gear shop for the more snowy days.

A Day (or so) In: The Pike Place Market

Note: This post is the first of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are organized in itinerary form, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

Overview:
Granted, the Pike Place Market is not a neighborhood, officially, but it certainly should be. The Market is the epicenter of Seattle for tourists and residents alike. Perched in a stellar setting over Elliott Bay in downtown, it is central to all of the city. Just about everything one would need for daily living is found in this historic, patinaed landmark. Produce and flower stalls, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, breweries, cheese makers, and ethnic grocers abound (as do local craft stalls and the more generic souvenir shops). There are restaurants, shops, services, and apartments. There is even a health clinic, a senior center and a daycare facility in the greater, 12+ block labyrinth of the Market.

Checking in: There are two places to consider staying at the Market. For those traveling on the proverbial shoe string, the HI-Seattle Hostel is a real bargain. This clean, and secure hostel is right in the lower part of the Market and dorm beds start at $25 per night. For those with more leeway in their budget, the bed and breakfast, Pension Nichols, offers the best value for ambience, location and amenities. (It is also, by the way, pet friendly!) Rooms start at $120 per night for double occupancy.

Morning:
Start your day at the Market with a hearty oatmeal or egg-&-bacon breakfast at the Soundview Café. It is a cafeteria-style diner with one of the best views in town. A counter seat at the west wall proffers a sweeping vista of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains (on sunny days). This place is frequented by locals, and the café even has an area for folks bringing their own brown bag meals.

Then, walk all the calories off by exploring the main drag of the Market, Pike Place, and the adjacent walking street, Post Alley. Take pictures, listen to buskers (there is a fabulous A-cappella singing group that is often in front of the original Starbuck’s shop), take in the stunning view from Victor Steinbrueck Park at the north end of the market, and do a whole lot of tasting and window shopping. Some of my favorite haunts include: Sur La Table (the original shop), The Souk, DeLaurenti, Metsker Maps, Left Bank Books, Market Spice, and Raven’s Nest.

Afternoon:
On a nice day, shopping for picnic groceries for lunch at the park is a fun option. If you do, check out Beecher’s Cheese and the deli counter at DeLaurenti’s for some nice additions to your basket. If the weather is less than accommodating, there is a myriad of small lunch spots and take out counters to choose from. You can find humbow to yeeros, piroshky to pizza. These are your most affordable options. For great food and ambience at reasonable (but not cheap) prices, try Maximilien Bistro for GREAT salads and french onion soup or, Matt’s in the Market for fabulous seafood. During tourist season, you may need a reservation for either.

Fueled up again, now head “Downunder” to the lower levels of the Market. You will find a playground of unique, kitchy shops, like Market Magic, F & J Great Western Trading Co., and Holy Cow Records. Let yourself get lost in the maze of shops. Any shopkeeper will help you find your way out.

Evening:
For dinner, head to the bar at the Pink Door. This whimsical, romantic little Italian joint is a favorite place for Seattlites to meet up with friends. If it is summer, try to snag a table on the patio. Their antipasti menu is very reasonable as is their house wine. For a treat, try their blue martini called “Parfait Amore”. Later in the evenings there is usually live music and sometimes a fabulous cabaret.

If you want to keep going, just across Post Alley from the Pink Door is Kells, an Irish (surprise-surprise) restaurant and pub that also has live music on the weekends.

And if you want to keep going in the wee hours, Le Pichet stays open until 2am, serving French Bistro fare, good espresso and wine.

Living, and working, on an Organic Farm in the Pacific Northwest (or anywhere for that matter!)

One interesting way to experience life in Cascadia is to volunteer on an organic farm in the area. The international nonprofit organization World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms acts as a matchmaker between organic farmers and volunteers willing to work on the farm in exchange for housing, food, and a hands-on education in sustainable agriculture. Generally, volunteers work 1/2 a day, each day, in exchange for their meals and accommodation.

They are clear that it is a volunteer program, so neither WWOOF nor the farms are able to assist with work visas. Most international volunteers come on a tourist or student visa. By the way, there are other organic farm volunteer opportunities as well, such as academic/internship programs.

More on the organic farm movement in the Pacific Northwest can be found on Cascadia Song, under the December 29th post.

Wikitravel.org on Seattle

Wikitravel has a very useful and user-friendly overview article on Seattle with lots and lots of info for visiting the city. It drills down on many of the neighborhoods, and provides ideas for things to see & do, places to eat & stay, and how to get around. I highly recommend this as a primer to the city.

Lodging Ideas for a Tight Budget

There are a lot of really nice hotels in Seattle. And really nice equals really expensive. There are many moderately priced hotels as well. Sometimes that is even too expensive, plus a moderate price most often equals a moderate experience. There are options to the hotel/motel/fluffy, victorian B&B scenes that also offer a more personalized experience in the city.

If you have never heard of Craigslist. Know it now. In Craigslist's own words, it is a, "local community classifieds and forums - a place to find jobs, housing, goods & services, social activities, a girlfriend or boyfriend, advice, community information, and just about anything else -- all for free, and in a relatively non-commercial environment."

Craigslist is a huge phenomenon in Seattle. Folks swear by it for buying, selling, finding jobs, apartments, band members, community groups, etc. I had one friend tell me that she she's had such good luck with Craigslist, sometimes thinks that if she typed in "truth" or "God," She'd find it there.

Anyway, there is a section under the Seattle site for sublets and temporary housing. Particularly if you are planning to stay for more than a few days, this is a good page to browse. There are even "by the night" postings at times. There is also a "housing wanted" page and a "house swap" page.

Which brings me to another tip: Housing Exchange programs. If you own a home or rent a place you can loan out, there are programs to match travelers who are willing to let others stay in their home in exchange for the same in a city they'd like to travel to. A couple organizations recommended to me are: Intervac, and Home Exchange. Members can make decisions around whether they allow children, smokers, etc. and whether they will allow use of other amenities, such as the car. Read the sites for rules and the full process.

An even more intimate option is Couch Surfing. Where people offer a free place to stay for a traveler for the sake of meeting new people from around the world. Of course this also means you are willing to make the same offer to your hosts, or others, at some earlier or later date.

Finally, last but not least, Seattle does have a hostel that has great rates and is smack-dab downtown. It is right under the Pike Place Market, which is a classic Seattle landmark and is just blocks from other sights.