Weekenders: Orcas Island - A Center of the Cascadia Universe

This post is one of an intermittent series on weekend getaway destinations that are 1/2 day or less drive from Seattle. There are so many options: seashore, islands, mountains, countryside, neighboring cities and towns. We will take a look at some of the best examples of each.

About 100 miles north of Seattle, in the most northwest corner of the contiguous US lies a group of craggy, evergreen, windswept islands called the San Juans. They are part of a larger archipelago that reaches north along the BC coast.

Above: A view of the hamlet of Olga on Orcas Island

The San Juan Islands include far over 100 islands. Many are tiny holding, at times, a single tree. Some are completely owned by a single person. Some are entirely state parks, complete with docks, mooring bouys, and basic camping facilities such as water spigots, fire rings, and outhouses. Only four of these islands have sizeable populations: San Juan, Lopez, Shaw and Orcas. These are also the only four islands in San Juan County that are accessible by the Washington State Ferries. As the WSFs are by far the most affordable way to travel to the islands, these four islands have become even more populated and have developed into destinations for travelers.

Left: Riding the Washington State Ferry

Each of the four major islands has its own individual charm and unique landmarks and assets. Each has accommodations and parks and historic sights. Orcas, although not the largest or most populated (San Juan Island is), seems to be the most popular with visitors. It may have to do with the charm of East Sound, the only town on the island. It could be the marketing muscle behind historic Rosario Resort. Or it might be that Orcas has, by far, the highest point in the county, Mount Constitution in Moran State Park, from the top of which on a clear day one can see as far north as Canada and behold breathtaking views of Mt. Baker, the Olympic Peninsula, and nearer bird’s eye views of the islands themselves.

Right: A view southwest toward Lopez Island after sunset from Buck Bay

This mild, sunny region (due to a “rain shadow” created by the Olympic Mountains, the San Juans get about ½ the rainfall of Seattle), is rich in wildlife from eagles, loons and herons, to whales, seals, otters, and deer. Orcas Island, approximately 60 square miles in size and with a year around population of about 5000, is also rich in landscape, arts, and activities. It has such a vast spectrum of things to do and see it’s hard to know where to start in describing Orcas and highlighting the must-see sights. Nonetheless, here is an intrepid attempt:

How To Get There

To drive to Orcas (recommended due to its size and limited rental car service), you must plan ahead, particularly in the summertime. There are a limited number of ferries to Orcas each day. Check the WSF website for the schedule. You cannot reserve a space, and boats fill up in the summertime, so depending on the day and time (Thursdays and Fridays are most popular), you should arrive at the landing between 1 and 3 hours ahead of your intended sailing time.

Left: 90 minutes before the ferry departs on a Friday in April

Directions: From Seattle, drive North on I-5 about 65 miles to exit 230.
At exit 230 head west on highway 20 approximately 15 miles to Anacortes.
Head north on Commercial Ave a little over a mile, then follow signs west to the Washington State Ferry Landing.

Flights are also available through San Juan Airlines and Kenmore Air.

Activities

Scenic Drive Destinations
•
West Sound is a sweet little crossroads on, you guessed it, the western half of the island. There is a small inn and café with a view south to the water. Getting there, you drive through farmland reminiscent of Ireland with its sheep and grassy expanses.
• Deer Harbor is a step beyond West Sound, and offers views of a snug little harbor after a trek along a rocky shoreline.
• Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park on the east side of the island is a long, windy drive up and up through fir forests breaking open to ever-more breath taking views as you climb.

Above: A summer solstice sunrise from the top of Mt. Constitution, looking across Lummi Island toward Mt. Baker. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad.


• Olga, a couple miles south of Moran Park, is small, quaint and intimate. The Orcas Artworks is there, with Café Olga, and a drive down to the road’s end offers a peek into hamlet life on the island. A dock, gazebo, potter’s workshop, community hall and park, and a post office being the highlights

Above: The public dock in Olga

Hiking

• Moran State Park offers several hiking trails of varying length and difficulty, two beautiful and COLD lakes which are perfect for trout fishing (in season) and non-motorized boating (paddle and row boats can be rented in the summer), and comfortable camping facilities.

Left: Cascadia Falls in Moran State Park

Right: Hiking Mt. Pickett in Moran State Park

• Turtleback Mountain, recently saved from the threat of development through the efforts of the San Juan Preservation Trust is another hiking gem of the island, only recently opened to the public for hiking.
• Obstruction Pass Park is a locals’ favorite. A short, flat hike through fir and madrona forest and dense salal leads to a beautiful rocky beach. A few campsites are available.
• Madrona Point is a small park and sacred Lummi burial site just a few short blocks from “downtown” Eastsound. It offers an easy, short hike to views south out of the Sound. Grab a picnic lunch at Roses Bakery or Island Market and head over.

The Arts
• The Orcas Center,hosts local and visiting performances of theater and music. If you see a local group on the calendar, don’t shy away… Orcas is a magnet for artists of all kinds and the talent shows up on stage.
• Orcas Grange hosts the occasional dance, which is supposed to be truly a wonderful time.
• Orcas Artworks shows and sells fine art and craft only from full-time residents of the island. Membership in the co-op is competitive and prospective members’ work is juried.
Left: A self-serve flower stand across the street from the Artworks. Photo Credit: Cascadia Dad







• Howe Art is a magical, kinetic sculpture garden and gallery.
• Crow Valley Pottery is both beautiful and historic.
• Lamiel Museum is a continuously evolving collection of local art in a private home.
• Other Ideas

History
• Orcas History Museum is a sweet little place in Eastsound, comprised of several historic cabins from the island which have been moved and attached. Learn about the Native American tribes and the European pioneers as well as later history through the depression and world wars.
• Rosario Resort was originally the private home of Robert Moran, a wealthy Seattle shipbuilder. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century and is a lovely place to tour. Robert Moran was also a great patron of the island, developing and donating the land that would become Moran State Park to Washington State.

Shopping in Eastsound
Here are a few Cascadia Girl favorites:
• Farmer’s Market
• Tres Fabu
• Olga’s
• Darvill’s Bookstore

So Much More
• Kayaking, Whale Watching, Fishing, Spas, Sailing are just a few of the other activities on Orcas. Here is a good resource for finding outfitters, charters, rental companies, etc: thesanjuans.com

Where To Stay

Inns and B&Bs
Turtleback Farm Inn
Kangaroo House
Buck Bay Farm
Inn at Ship Bay
Outlook Inn
Deer Harbor Inn
Kingfish Inn

There are far more options than the ones listed here, but it is a start. Here is a resource for more ideas: gonorthwest.com

Camping and Other
Moran State Park Note: Try to reserve a camping spot NOT along the main road.
Vacation Rentals Note: These are for longer stays. Usual minimum rental is 1 week.
Doe Bay Resort Note: Very crunchy-granola funky.
Rosario Resort Note: Very popular due to strong advertising and long history. Some folks love it. Not a Cascadia Girl favorite, however the spa there is said to be very nice.

Dining
As with the accommodation list, the array of options for dining is far wider than the list here. However, all those listed below have the “Cascadia Girl Seal of Approval.”

Casual, less expensive, options
• Café Olga
• Rose’s Bakery
• The Kitchen
• Portofino Pizzeria
• Bilbo’s Festiva
• Westsound Café

Fine Dining
• Inn at Ship Bay Note: Their scallops are heavenly.
• Olga’s
• Christina’s
• Deer Harbor Inn

Other Information Resources
The list above does not begin to do justice to highlighting all the attractions of Orcas… there is just so much. Therefore, here are a few more resources for research and dreaming:
• Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce
• Guide to the San Juans

“The Cirque” Seattle Style

There is a new spring ritual in Seattle: The Moisture Festival. This is an amazing two-week-long celebration of local cabaret, circus, burlesque, and vaudeville talent including acrobatics, juggling, comedy, dance, interactive performances and more. Over 130 artists perform across two venues in the city (Hale’s Palladium in Fremont and the ACT downtown). It is quickly becoming the Spring equinox equivalent to the Summer Solstice parade and festival (also held in Fremont). Per the website, the Festival has become an annual reunion of sorts for local vaudeville-style artists.

Proceeds are donated to two local charities: the BF Day School Foundation and the New Old Time Chautauqua. Tickets to the Palladium show start at $5 and tickets to the ACT’s burlesque show are $20. The Festival runs from March 15 to April 1.

This is just the tip of the psychedelic iceberg when it comes to neo-burlesque and Cirque du Soleil style cabaret performances. Teatro Zinzanni takes you to Liza Minelli's Cabaret and beyond. Can Can’s neo-burlesque cabaret is new and supposed to be cheeky and fun.

The Seattle Times recently did a great write-up on the mushrooming new-burlesque scene in Seattle, and included a list of venues.

This Seattle zeitgeist should not be missed…. Enjoy!

A Sculpture Park is Born

Seattle is all a-buzz about its new Olympic Sculpture Park, and for good reason. This public space in the Belltown neighborhood is the first in Seattle to have the potential for the grand quality of New York's Central Park, or the Tuilleries of Paris. It is a large space in the center of the city, designed for walking, that has beauty unto itself and shows off the beauty of the city that is its home. Entrance is free and it is open every day of the year.

Above: Looking west, past Calder's "Eagle," toward Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains - The park's name sake.

I say "potential", as the park in many ways is nascent. The landscaping is in its infancy, and the art collection (although already a great range of sculptural styles and concepts) remains small relative to the expanse of the nine acre site. In fact, although the park opened a couple weeks ago, parts remain under construction. Not only will the collection flesh out, but it will constantly evolve, with pieces appearing and others disappearing over time.

Above: Richard Serra's, "Wake"

Although there are aspects of the Park that are similar to the great urban parks of other cities, there are some significant differences too. The Olympic Sculpture Park is very modern, not classic, in its design. It was also not part of the original or early plans for the city. This place was reclaimed from industrial use and winds its way over and around both a major city street and train tracks.
Additionally, great efforts were put into environmental restoration of the site, including the restoration of part of the shoreline of Puget sound.

Right: "Split," by Roxy Paine

It seems every aspect of the park was thoughtfully considered, from the site, landscape, architectural, and collection design, to details such as the compostable serving ware at the cafe (which has a lovely selection of tasty, "picnic-able" food) and an acknowledgement of the displacement of homeless folks who had lived on the old industrial grounds.

Details

Location:
2901 Western Avenue, Seattle

Maps:
Click here

Holiday Closures:
Although the park is open every day, the Pavilion, which houses the gift shop, cafe, restrooms and garage, is closed on the following holidays:

Independence Day, Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Columbus Day, Monday, October 8, 2007
Thanksgiving, Thursday, November 22, 2007
Christmas Eve, Monday, December 24, 2007
Christmas Day, Tuesday, December 25, 2007
New Year's Eve, Monday, December 31, 2007
New Year’s Day, Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Hours:
Park Hours
May 1–September 30: 6 a.m.–9 p.m. daily
October 1–April 30: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily

Pavilion Hours
May 1–September 30 Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.Friday: 10 a.m.– 9 p.m.
October 1–April 30Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

Parking:
Pay parking is available in the Pavilion garage. The entrance to the parking garage is on Broad Street. Open Daily from 6 a.m.–10 p.m. No overnight parking.
Rates: 0–2 Hours $62–4 Hours $12All Day $22
Metered parking is available on Western Avenue and Alaskan Way.

Dogs:
Allowed on leash in the park, but not in the pavillion (except, of course, service dogs).

Day Trippin' 101

Here's a tasting of the smorgasbord of day trips accessible from Seattle. It is just a sampling, with ideas for a variety of settings. Each of these outings is a full day except for Snoqualmie Falls which can be a 1/2 day excursion.

Mount Rainier is the largest mountain in the state and is a gorgeous national park. It is about a two-hour drive from Seattle.

Skagit Valley & the town of La Conner are about an hour north of Seattle. The valley is one of the richest areas of farmland in the country and all kinds of flowers are grown there (although most will be past their bloom season in late May). The town of La Conner is a farming and fishing town that is also very pretty. There is interesting shopping and good food there. The Museum of Northwest Art, in La Conner, is a great showcase of the northwest style of contemporary art and craft: .
Mt. Pilchuck is just east of the Skagit Valley, with great hikes in the park: http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/MountPilchuck_7602.asp and Pilchuck Glass School.

Whidbey Island, is about 1 1/2 hour away, including a great 1/2 hour ferry ride across Puget sound. The town of Langley is very picturesque and Ebey's Landing is a great walk both over and along a beautiful beach.

(Above: The Ebey Landing walk)

Snoqualmie Falls and Salish lodge are about 45 minutes east of Seattle, toward the Cascade Mountains, in farm country. The falls are quite dramatic. The lounge in the lodge offers a fabulous view of the falls and surrounding countryside.

Tacoma is about an hour south of Seattle. Things to see there include: The Museum of Glass, founded by Dale Chihuly, the Tacoma Art Museum (which I think has a better, albeit smaller, collection than the Seattle Art Museum), and Point Defiance Park which has a great 5-mile loop drive as well as many trails and great views of, and access to the beaches on, Puget Sound.

Although this list just scratches the surface, it is a great place to start.

Art museums and galleries- at least looking can be free

Here's a starter overview of art museums and galleries worth visiting:

Museums

The Frye Art Museum, on Capitol Hill, is my favorite museum in the city (the building itself is beautiful), always something intriguing and often it stretches me far. The Frye is always free, by its charter.

The Henry Art Museum on the University of Washington campus in the U District is the best venue for modern art. They too always have provocative shows. The Henry is free on Thursdays.

The Seattle Art Museum has three venues. Well... actually right now it only has one, as the main, downtown museum is being remodeled (thank god), and the new sculpture garden is not yet open. None-the-less, the Asian Art Museum branch is open and is a fabulous building in Volunteer Park on Capitol Hill (worth a visit just for the view). Admission to the Seattle Asian Art Museum is free on the first Thursday and first Saturday of each month. The Sculpture Park branch will open in late January and will always be free. The main museum will reopen in May.


Galleries

There is a slew of great art galleries in Seattle. Although they have traditionally centered in Pioneer Square (and there is still a density of galleries there), other neighborhoods are growing their own “gallery alleys”, including Belltown, Ballard, and Georgetown. Here are links to some of my favorites:

The Davidson Galleries
Foster White
The Seders Gallery.com/
Friesen Gallery
Greg Kucera
Kobo
SOIL
Vetri

There is an art walk the first Thursday of every month in the Pioneer Square neighborhood from 6—8pm. Galleries open new shows that evening, often with snacks and wine. Occidental Plaza is always filled that evening with new/young/unrepresented artists selling their wares.