A Sculpture Park is Born

Seattle is all a-buzz about its new Olympic Sculpture Park, and for good reason. This public space in the Belltown neighborhood is the first in Seattle to have the potential for the grand quality of New York's Central Park, or the Tuilleries of Paris. It is a large space in the center of the city, designed for walking, that has beauty unto itself and shows off the beauty of the city that is its home. Entrance is free and it is open every day of the year.

Above: Looking west, past Calder's "Eagle," toward Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains - The park's name sake.

I say "potential", as the park in many ways is nascent. The landscaping is in its infancy, and the art collection (although already a great range of sculptural styles and concepts) remains small relative to the expanse of the nine acre site. In fact, although the park opened a couple weeks ago, parts remain under construction. Not only will the collection flesh out, but it will constantly evolve, with pieces appearing and others disappearing over time.

Above: Richard Serra's, "Wake"

Although there are aspects of the Park that are similar to the great urban parks of other cities, there are some significant differences too. The Olympic Sculpture Park is very modern, not classic, in its design. It was also not part of the original or early plans for the city. This place was reclaimed from industrial use and winds its way over and around both a major city street and train tracks.
Additionally, great efforts were put into environmental restoration of the site, including the restoration of part of the shoreline of Puget sound.

Right: "Split," by Roxy Paine

It seems every aspect of the park was thoughtfully considered, from the site, landscape, architectural, and collection design, to details such as the compostable serving ware at the cafe (which has a lovely selection of tasty, "picnic-able" food) and an acknowledgement of the displacement of homeless folks who had lived on the old industrial grounds.

Details

Location:
2901 Western Avenue, Seattle

Maps:
Click here

Holiday Closures:
Although the park is open every day, the Pavilion, which houses the gift shop, cafe, restrooms and garage, is closed on the following holidays:

Independence Day, Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Columbus Day, Monday, October 8, 2007
Thanksgiving, Thursday, November 22, 2007
Christmas Eve, Monday, December 24, 2007
Christmas Day, Tuesday, December 25, 2007
New Year's Eve, Monday, December 31, 2007
New Year’s Day, Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Hours:
Park Hours
May 1–September 30: 6 a.m.–9 p.m. daily
October 1–April 30: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily

Pavilion Hours
May 1–September 30 Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.Friday: 10 a.m.– 9 p.m.
October 1–April 30Closed MondaysTuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

Parking:
Pay parking is available in the Pavilion garage. The entrance to the parking garage is on Broad Street. Open Daily from 6 a.m.–10 p.m. No overnight parking.
Rates: 0–2 Hours $62–4 Hours $12All Day $22
Metered parking is available on Western Avenue and Alaskan Way.

Dogs:
Allowed on leash in the park, but not in the pavillion (except, of course, service dogs).

When in Rome... or Seattle: Eagle Watching on the Skagit

This post is one in an intermittent series on places and activities favored by Seattle locals when they want to “sightsee” their own backyard. In every city there are activities and landmarks promoted to tourists that locals avoid, because of the crowds, the cost, the “cheesy” factor, and/or having done it every time family visits from out of town. In Seattle, these include the Space Needle, the Underground Tour of Pioneer Square, and riding “The Duck,” among others. Ever wonder how a New Yorker sightsees in Manhattan or a Parisian in Paris? Here is a look at what Seattlites do when they want play tourist.

One of the most raw yet beautiful events of nature in Cascadia is occurring right now on the upper Skagit River, approximately 2 hours north and east of Seattle. A major salmon spawn is in full swing, attracting hundreds of bald eagles. This year, the Nature Conservancy counted over 500 balds along an 11.5 mile stretch of the river. This is a record for the Skagit and is the largest gathering of the raptors in the country.

Cascadians, in turn, flock to the area to take in the amazing sights of both the salmon run and the convention of eagles and other large birds that converge to feast. Each year thousands of visitors arrive with binoculars, cameras, boots, and raincoats to watch the spectacle of this cycle of life.

Left: Bald eagles dining on spawning salmon in the upper Skagit River. Photo from the Skagit River Bald Eagle Awareness Team, taken by Bradley Husick.

The upper Skagit is an intensely beautiful area with dense forest laced with moss and carpeted in ferns, salal, and other evergreen undergrowth. The small towns of Concrete, Rockport and Marblemount which line the Skagit River host the annual Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Festival” which happens next weekend, February 3rd and 4th. Events range from the “biscuits-and-gravy” breakfast feed at the local senior center to scientific presentations, guided tours, and entertainment in the form of storytelling and musical concerts. The locals put their heart and soul into the festival. They are very proud to be stewards of this part of the region and to be helping to preserve this annual rite of nature.

There are many ways to see the eagles, from guided hikes to float trips. However, you don’t have to be an outdoorsman to catch the action. Highway 20 parallels the river in many places and it is common to see folks pulled over on the shoulder of the road, taking pictures of the feasting birds from inside their cars.

Here is a link to a couple video clips of eagles feeding on salmon in the Skagit.

How to Get There:

Head north on I-5 one hour to Sedro Wooley, then east on Highway 20.

Where to Eat (and stay):

There are many little local cafes and restaurants in the area. Most are of similar casual, family-style quality. For a little piece of history and local color, stop in at the Buffalo Run Inn in Marblemount. This restaurant/hotel used to be the area’s brothel (many, many moons ago). Last time I ate there, the waitress told us about shooting a bear in her back yard who had started rummaging in the trash cans. Generally, shooting bear is illegal except for when one becomes a “public nuisance and danger”. “And,” she told us, “bear’s good eatin.”

An eagle-watching trip can easily be a one day outing. However, if you want to make a weekender of it, there are many kitschy, little places to stay along the way.

Delving a little Deeper:

If you do make a weekend of it and want take a break from the Festival, check to see if any of the other hiking trails in the area are open and hikeable.

When in Rome…or Seattle: Mt. Si

This is the first in an intermittent series on places and activities favored by Seattle locals when they want to “sightsee” their own backyard. In every city there are activities and landmarks promoted to tourists that locals avoid, because of the crowds, the cost, the “cheesy” factor, and/or having done it every time family visits from out of town. In Seattle, these include the Space Needle, the Underground Tour of Pioneer Square, and riding “The Duck,” among others. Ever wonder how a New Yorker sightsees in Manhattan or a Parisian in Paris? Here is a look at what Seattlites do when they want play tourist.

When Seattlites want to “get outside,” test their meddle, and take in some awe-inspiring scenery without hauling out the backpack, they head to Mt. Si. Located in the beginning of the Cascade foothills, about ½ hour east of Seattle in North Bend, this day hike is a pilgrimage for many locals; some annually, some weekly, some daily. Many hike it in the late spring to test their readiness for other mountain excursions. It offers lovely, forest scenery and stunning views of the Cascades and the city from the top.

An eight mile hike, round trip, you climb 3700 feet to a craggy outcropping with views to the west (Seattle) and south (Mt. Rainier). If you investigate a bit, you will also find some views to the north (Mt Baker).

Left: The view South

While on the trail, you may need to step aside for one of the Mt Si runners. These are folks training for big races and use Mt. Si as their Stairmaster. If you see water bottles tucked next to the trail, leave them. They are left by the runners while heading up to grab and use while coming down.


Left: A close up of Mt. Rainier

You will also likely run into many big, friendly dogs. Dogs are welcome on Mt. Si and, although officially they are supposed to be on leash, most are so friendly and well behaved that their owners let them loose to blaze the trail.

Tips:

Go when it’s been dry for a few days (yes, that happens). Mt. Si is a steep hike in places, and can be treacherous when muddy.

Above: Looking west toward Seattle

Wear sturdy boots. Although the trail is very well maintained, it is an eight-mile hike with a healthy incline. Also, the last stretch to the top is a rock scramble.

Go early in the morning and/or on a weekday. This is a VERY popular hike. If you start after 8am on a sunny weekend day, you could find yourself in a glory train of fellow hikers. Also, if it is going to be warm, you don’t want to be hiking up in the heat of the day.

Don’t forget food and water! Make sure to bring a knapsack with the basics, including lots of water, a hearty sandwich, and something to snack on, on the way up.

Bring your camera. The views really are breathtaking, and fellow hikers will be happy to take a “victory shot” of you at the top.

Directions:

From Seattle, drive east on I-90 to Exit 32. Turn left on 468th Avenue and drive to North Bend Way. Turn left and drive to Mount Si Road. Turn right and drive 4 miles to the trailhead on the left.

Links:

http://www.mountsi.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Si
http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=2087

A Day (or so) In: The Pike Place Market

Note: This post is the first of an intermittent series focused on experiencing the full and authentic flavor of specific Seattle neighborhoods. What to do and see, where to eat and drink, and other details are organized in itinerary form, with an eye to keeping it affordable.

Overview:
Granted, the Pike Place Market is not a neighborhood, officially, but it certainly should be. The Market is the epicenter of Seattle for tourists and residents alike. Perched in a stellar setting over Elliott Bay in downtown, it is central to all of the city. Just about everything one would need for daily living is found in this historic, patinaed landmark. Produce and flower stalls, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, breweries, cheese makers, and ethnic grocers abound (as do local craft stalls and the more generic souvenir shops). There are restaurants, shops, services, and apartments. There is even a health clinic, a senior center and a daycare facility in the greater, 12+ block labyrinth of the Market.

Checking in: There are two places to consider staying at the Market. For those traveling on the proverbial shoe string, the HI-Seattle Hostel is a real bargain. This clean, and secure hostel is right in the lower part of the Market and dorm beds start at $25 per night. For those with more leeway in their budget, the bed and breakfast, Pension Nichols, offers the best value for ambience, location and amenities. (It is also, by the way, pet friendly!) Rooms start at $120 per night for double occupancy.

Morning:
Start your day at the Market with a hearty oatmeal or egg-&-bacon breakfast at the Soundview Café. It is a cafeteria-style diner with one of the best views in town. A counter seat at the west wall proffers a sweeping vista of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains (on sunny days). This place is frequented by locals, and the café even has an area for folks bringing their own brown bag meals.

Then, walk all the calories off by exploring the main drag of the Market, Pike Place, and the adjacent walking street, Post Alley. Take pictures, listen to buskers (there is a fabulous A-cappella singing group that is often in front of the original Starbuck’s shop), take in the stunning view from Victor Steinbrueck Park at the north end of the market, and do a whole lot of tasting and window shopping. Some of my favorite haunts include: Sur La Table (the original shop), The Souk, DeLaurenti, Metsker Maps, Left Bank Books, Market Spice, and Raven’s Nest.

Afternoon:
On a nice day, shopping for picnic groceries for lunch at the park is a fun option. If you do, check out Beecher’s Cheese and the deli counter at DeLaurenti’s for some nice additions to your basket. If the weather is less than accommodating, there is a myriad of small lunch spots and take out counters to choose from. You can find humbow to yeeros, piroshky to pizza. These are your most affordable options. For great food and ambience at reasonable (but not cheap) prices, try Maximilien Bistro for GREAT salads and french onion soup or, Matt’s in the Market for fabulous seafood. During tourist season, you may need a reservation for either.

Fueled up again, now head “Downunder” to the lower levels of the Market. You will find a playground of unique, kitchy shops, like Market Magic, F & J Great Western Trading Co., and Holy Cow Records. Let yourself get lost in the maze of shops. Any shopkeeper will help you find your way out.

Evening:
For dinner, head to the bar at the Pink Door. This whimsical, romantic little Italian joint is a favorite place for Seattlites to meet up with friends. If it is summer, try to snag a table on the patio. Their antipasti menu is very reasonable as is their house wine. For a treat, try their blue martini called “Parfait Amore”. Later in the evenings there is usually live music and sometimes a fabulous cabaret.

If you want to keep going, just across Post Alley from the Pink Door is Kells, an Irish (surprise-surprise) restaurant and pub that also has live music on the weekends.

And if you want to keep going in the wee hours, Le Pichet stays open until 2am, serving French Bistro fare, good espresso and wine.

Day Trippin' 101

Here's a tasting of the smorgasbord of day trips accessible from Seattle. It is just a sampling, with ideas for a variety of settings. Each of these outings is a full day except for Snoqualmie Falls which can be a 1/2 day excursion.

Mount Rainier is the largest mountain in the state and is a gorgeous national park. It is about a two-hour drive from Seattle.

Skagit Valley & the town of La Conner are about an hour north of Seattle. The valley is one of the richest areas of farmland in the country and all kinds of flowers are grown there (although most will be past their bloom season in late May). The town of La Conner is a farming and fishing town that is also very pretty. There is interesting shopping and good food there. The Museum of Northwest Art, in La Conner, is a great showcase of the northwest style of contemporary art and craft: .
Mt. Pilchuck is just east of the Skagit Valley, with great hikes in the park: http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/MountPilchuck_7602.asp and Pilchuck Glass School.

Whidbey Island, is about 1 1/2 hour away, including a great 1/2 hour ferry ride across Puget sound. The town of Langley is very picturesque and Ebey's Landing is a great walk both over and along a beautiful beach.

(Above: The Ebey Landing walk)

Snoqualmie Falls and Salish lodge are about 45 minutes east of Seattle, toward the Cascade Mountains, in farm country. The falls are quite dramatic. The lounge in the lodge offers a fabulous view of the falls and surrounding countryside.

Tacoma is about an hour south of Seattle. Things to see there include: The Museum of Glass, founded by Dale Chihuly, the Tacoma Art Museum (which I think has a better, albeit smaller, collection than the Seattle Art Museum), and Point Defiance Park which has a great 5-mile loop drive as well as many trails and great views of, and access to the beaches on, Puget Sound.

Although this list just scratches the surface, it is a great place to start.

Riding the Ferries

The Washington State Ferry System is the largest in the US. These lovely old (and some new) boats service 20 destinations throughout the Puget Sound, including two routes to Vancouver Island in BC.

To drive onto the ferry can be spendy. So, if you are traveling by car, you may want to plan your route to avoid the boats. However, as a walk-on passenger, the ride is very inexpensive and is a comfortable, fun, and very authentic way to see one of the most beautiful parts of Washington State.

If you are in Seattle, the easiest rides to take are from pier 52 at the downtown waterfront. There is a marvelous ride from Seattle to Bremerton that takes 1 hour each way. The fare is $6.50 for the round trip. The route takes you from the city west out of Elliott Bay into Puget Sound and past Bainbridge Island and parts of the Olympic Peninsula. On a sunny day, you will also have stunning view of the Olympic Mountains. Departing and arriving Seattle, you get amazing views of the city. Once on the water, you have beautiful vistas of the Sound, the islands and the Peninsula. Although Bremerton itself is not a real tourist destination, the journey there is worth the trip. When you disembark, you can just get right back in line for the return boat.

The boat is large and has two car decks and passenger levels. Although there is a café, I would recommend bringing a picnic meal (which you can gather at the Pike Place Market, which is about 10 blocks away). I recommend timing the trip so that on your return voyage, you are arriving back at the Seattle dock just after sunset, as the view of the city from the water at night is spectacular.

My other favorite route the ride through the San Juan Islands from Anacortes, although once in the San Juans, you will not want to leave. So, you might want to plan for an overnight or two on one of the islands. Friday Harbor, the largest town in the islands, sits right at the bay where the ferry arrives. You would be able to walk to your hotel from the ferry landing. On Orcas Island, there is a lovely, old hotel right at that landing as well.

Wikitravel.org on Seattle

Wikitravel has a very useful and user-friendly overview article on Seattle with lots and lots of info for visiting the city. It drills down on many of the neighborhoods, and provides ideas for things to see & do, places to eat & stay, and how to get around. I highly recommend this as a primer to the city.